Sulawesi

The island of Sulawesi in Indonesia is an inexhaustible source of happiness for travelers in love with nature, both on land and underwater...

    Multicolored exuberance at Entre la Mer 1 (Kampangar, Central Sulawesi, July 2017)

    Diving away from the crowds in Sulawesi

    Fancy exuberant coral and wriggling fish? A little corner of authentic Indonesia? Welcome to Kampangar, Sulawesi!
    Opo the hero poses with the survivor rescued from the waters ... (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

    Opo, my underwater guide, this hero

    He's such a great guy. Opo, my dive guide in the waters of Central Sulawesi, became my hero. Because I can be a real burden sometimes...
    On the tarmac at Luwuk Airport. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

    When You Travel in Indonesia

    Ah, Indonesia! My favorite diving destination. But when you travel there, you'd better get used to jam karet, the "elastic weather"...
    Bangka, Sulawesi, July 2015

    Bangka, happiness under water

    Another Indonesian island I love: the beautiful and peaceful Bangka. I take you first under the surface, among the fish, on video.
    Coral Eye. Bangka Island, Sulawesi, Indonesia. March 2013.

    Coral Eye

    March 2013. Bangka Island, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. My new home, for a few days, is called Coral Eye. What a beautiful name!
    Bangka Island. Coral Eye Beach. Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.

    Bangka Island

    Nature, calm and pleasure ... In North Sulawesi, Indonesia, I headed for a dream island. His name: Bangka.
    Lion Air Invocation Card. Indonesia, March 2013.

    Say Your Prayers on Lion Air (bis)

    The Indonesian company Lion Air has a unique trick. With the safety instructions, there is a special prayer booklet for the plane.
    On the way to Bangka Island! (North Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)

    Back to Indonesia

    I was (still) gone. A short trip of 15 days in Indonesia. On the program: rest and dives at Halmahera (North Maluku) and Bangka in North Sulawesi.
    At the Rantepao market

    At the Rantepao market

    I like hanging out in Asian markets. During my stay in Sulawesi (Indonesia), last summer, I went for a ride in that of Rantepao, in the heart of Toraja country. Here are some pictures of atmosphere ...
    Mola mola-. Bangka Island, Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2010.

    The agony of the mola-mola

    It's just a fish, I know. No misery moved. Still, it's sad to see, a mola-mola in agony ... 
    We must start when we see his flamboyant dress orange and blue patterns, because the second after, it has disappeared into the depths of the coral substrate. (Pulau Bangka, Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2010)

    A mandarin at dusk

    The flamboyant little mandarin-fish does not dare to come out of his coral den until dusk. I found it in Bangka (Sulawesi, Indonesia).
    Bangka Island under water.

    Underwater Tour Above the Reefs of Bangka Island

    Indonesia, sea of Celebes. Under the surface, life abounds! The proof in pictures, with this small underwater video, made around the island of Bangka, in the north of Sulawesi.
    Funeral ceremony in Bori. Toraja Country, Sulawesi, July 2010.

    Funeral Toraja: the video

    I bring you back to Toraja Country, Sulawesi (Indonesia). After the photos of the traditional funeral ceremony I attended, in the village of Bori, here is a small video that gives a good idea of the atmosphere.
    Nudibranch. Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2010.

    Nudibranchs forever

    It is one of the treasures of the Indonesian island of Sulawesi, to discover underwater. The delicate beauty of nudibranchs, these small sea slugs with shimmering colors, is a delight!
    Kids scooter on the road in front of me. (Toraja Country, Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2010)

    Scooter in the rice fields

    Batutumonga. This strange and beautiful name is synonymous for me, a fantastic scooter ride in the heart of Toraja Country, in central Sulawesi. Rice fields sublime ... but rotten roads! I almost stayed in the mountains sleeping because of a flat tire.
    Toadfish (antennal). Lembeh, Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2010.

    The mini-monsters of Lembeh

    Open your eyes: in the Lembeh Strait in Sulawesi (Indonesia), strange creatures populate the seabed. A treasure of biodiversity, which attracts divers from all over the world.
    Hairy frogfish. Lembeh, Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2010.

    Hairy frog fish in Lembeh

    Here is a pretty "hairy frogfish" photographed in Lembeh to wait for the next ticket.
    Rice granaries, with the roof "tongkonan", typical of the country Toraja. Sulawesi, July 2010.

    Tana Toraja, I'm back

    Rantepao, finally! Ideal base for shining in the villages and rice paddies of the country Toraja, called here Tana Toraja. We are almost in the center of the island of Sulawesi.
    The terminal of the company Litha, in Makassar, from where the buses leave for the country Toraja.

    Night bus

    The country Toraja, it deserves! From Manado (North Sulawesi), you must first reach Makassar to the south, an hour and a half by plane. Then it's 8 to 10 hours bus ride to Rantepao.
    Ornate ghost fish. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2010)

    The small critters of the reef

    In Indonesia, the word "biodiversity" makes sense. Here in the Sea of Celebes, the underwater world teems with bizarre and fascinating creatures, often tiny.
    The small white sand beach of Murex Bangka Resort. Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2010.

    Let go

    At Bangka Island (Sulawesi, Indonesia), on the cute beach of Murex Resort, it's total relaxation: diving, eating, sleeping. Happiness !
    Soon Sulawesi

    Soon Sulawesi

    A new start, very soon ... Three years after my first trip to Sulawesi, I return. On the program: Bangka Island, Lembeh and the Toraja country.
    Back to Island Retreat. (Togian Islands, Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2008.)

    Earthquake under water

    This is one of the strangest dives I've done. Feel the earth tremble ... under water, it's really a funny thing. It was in Indonesia, in Sulawesi, in July 2007. In the Togian Islands, exactly.
    Nudibranch. Heron Ardeadoris (Ardeadoris egretta). Togian Islands, Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2007.

    Diving in the Togian Islands

    The Togian dives seemed less spectacular than those of Bunaken or Lembeh, during this July 2007 trip: coral more damaged, life less abundant. Yet, taking his time, we discover a lot of treasures.
    The island of Bunaken seen from the sea. Here the town church located near Pantai Pangalisang (East Coast Beach).

    Christiane from "Froggies" on France 3

    Remember: during my stay on the island of Bunaken (north-Sulawesi) in July 2007, I had dive with the Froggies center, directed by the amazing Christiane Muller, who had been there for about fifteen years . 
    Island Retreat: white sand and azure water ... (Togian Islands, Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

    The Togian Islands, a small paradise

    The rest of my trip to Sulawesi (Indonesia) during the summer of 2007 ... On the program: the Togian Islands. A little paradise at the end of the world!
    The Saluopa Waterfall is a gigantic cataract buried in the jungle near Lake Poso. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007)

    Saluopa, the waterfall in the jungle

    The huge island of Sulawesi (Indonesia) amazed me. I take you to cool off at the Saluopa waterfall buried in the jungle, near Tentena and Lake Poso.
    From Toraja country to Poso lake

    From Toraja country to Poso lake

    The rest of my trip to Sulawesi !!! We are Saturday, July 14, 2007. Departure from Rantepao, in the heart of the country Toraja at 7am, under a bright sun. Arriving twelve hours later, at night, in heavy rain, at Siuri Beach Cottages, on the west bank of the huge Poso Lake.
    Rice fields in Batutumonga. Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.

    The beautiful rice fields of Batutumonga

    I continue the story of my trip to Sulawesi, a trip in July 2007. I will take you back to the Toraja country for a motorcycle ride in the beautiful rice paddies around the village of Batutumonga, north of Rantepao.
    The ancient hanging wooden tombs, eaten away by humidity, show the bones they contain. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007)

    Skulls, caves and a swimming pool

    I'll take you back to Sulawesi, in the Toraja country, where I spent a few days in the summer of 2007. On the program: a scooter ride from Rantepao, to discover the sites of Ket'e Kesu, Londa and Tilanga.
    The cliff of tau-tau at Lemo. (Toraja Country, Sulawesi, July 2007)

    In Lemo, the dead are watching you

    Continuation of my trip to Sulawesi (Indonesia) in July 2007. Lemo is one of the most famous sites in Toraja country, for its tombs in the cliffs, guarded by the tau-tau, wooden statues representing the deceased.
    Rice fields near Batutumonga. Sulawesi, Indonesia.

    Blog stuck in Sulawesi

    Yes, I know ... The Sulawesi section has remained stale. At the moment, I had excuses: impossible to find an internet connection in the regions visited!
    In the streets of Manado. North Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2007.

    Back to "civilization"

    Today I am back in Manado, where I find the civilization and comfort of the modern world: air conditioning and hot water, shopping malls and club-sandwiches, mobile phone that captures and high-speed internet connections ...
    Funeral Ceremony in Toraja Country.

    Tana Toraja, it's stronger than you

    Here I am in Toraja country (Tana Toraja) in Sulawesi. Here again, a very Christian population, and very attached to its traditions. I attended a funeral ceremony at the village of Rembon, near Rantepao. Spectacular introduction to the customs of the country ...
    On Lion Air, we have a booklet of prayers to read ... Sulawesi, Indonesia. July 2007.

    How Effective Prayers Are on Lion Air

    Today I fly to the other end of Sulawesi with Lion Air. Flight Manado-Makassar, departure 7:55, arrival 8:30. The plane is full like an egg. I am the only Westerner.
    Motorbike trip between lakes and volcanoes

    Motorbike trip between lakes and volcanoes

    At 7 o'clock sharp, as expected, Anto is there with his bike. First step of our journey, concocted for us by the guide Yoce: Mount Mahawu. Easy climb, even for a non-walker like me.
    The countryside around Tomohon, with Mount Lokon on the horizon.

    Heading Tomohon

    Now that I am the queen of the mikrolet, I am embarking without hesitation in the first blue minibus that displays "Karombasan" direction "Wanea". Karombasan is the bus terminal south of Manado.
    The mikrolets of Manado. Sulawesi, Indonesia.

    The "mikrolets" of Manado

    Back to Manado for a day trip, the time to book my plane tickets to the Toraja Country and organize my trip to the Togian Islands. I'm learning to travel in mikrolet, these blue minibuses that crisscross the city ...
    In the Lembeh Strait, huge cargo ships are languishing at anchor.

    Lembeh: rusty cargo ships and black sand

    Last day in Lembeh. Time definitely goes too fast! With its rusty freighters and its black sand bottom littered with sediment and rubbish, this strait is really a singular dive spot, far from clichés.
    A beautiful purple rhinopias, photographed in the Lembeh Strait. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007)

    The strange creatures of Lembeh

    In the Lembeh Strait (Sulawesi, Indonesia), live underwater monsters that delight divers-photographers!
    A yellow pygmy hippocampus, as big as the fingernail of my little finger. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

    Latest flights to Pantai Liang

    Already my last day in Bunaken! I'm a little sad at the idea of leaving tomorrow ... I'm already starting to take my little habits here. To do with mosquitoes (nyamouk), the fresh and salty shower of mandi, grilled fish-rice of the evening, the fabulous lunch buffet at Froggies, the inexhaustible kindness of the locals.
    My guide Salim, looking for the little beasts stuck on the fall of Bunaken. Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.

    Bunaken: Drops... to fall!

    These first two days in Bunaken have been going at full speed. The dives are up to my expectations: drop-offs covered with a variety of incredible coral. Side fauna, all the tropical panoply colorful is there.
    A traditional rocker boat, photographed off Pantai Liang (Bunaken).

    Arrival in Sulawesi: heading for Bunaken!

    Through the porthole of the plane, I discover Sulawesi, and the island of Bunaken, where I will spend the first five days. Arriving a creepy hair: it is nice over the bay, but a big rainy cloud settled on the airport of Manado.
    The Indonesian island of Sulawesi on Google Maps (screenshot).

    Next destination... Sulawesi?

    After my malaise trip from summer 2006 to the northeastern tip of Borneo (Sipadan Island), I feel the urge to return to soak my palms in the sea of Celebes. A little further east, this time: on the Indonesian island of Sulawesi.