A yellow pygmy hippocampus, as big as the fingernail of my little finger. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)
A yellow pygmy hippocampus, as big as the fingernail of my little finger. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

Latest flights to Pantai Liang

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic Google translation from a post originally written in French. My apologies for the strange sentences and the funny mistakes that could gave been generated during the process. If you can read French, the original and correct version can be found here PetitesBullesdAilleurs.fr

  Indonesia: Sulawesi - July 2007

Already my last day at Bunaken ! I have new neighbors, at Nyiur Melambai: Olivier and Ariane, and their three daughters, Alizé, Flora and Jade. Grenoblois coming from Bali. We take our meals together in the evening in the big desert restaurant and sympathize quickly. I'm a little sad to leave tomorrow.

I'm already starting to take my little habits here. To do to mosquitoes (Nyamouk) at the shower fresh and salty mandi (hard to have fresh water on this island!), grilled fish-rice of the evening, the fabulous lunch buffet at Froggies, to the inexhaustible kindness of the locals.

The beach, Pantai Liang, at low tide. Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.
The beach, Pantai Liang, at low tide. Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.

I like it, the island of Celebes alias Sulawesi... In any case, the little that I could see, in five short days, of North Sulawesi: that is to say, for the moment, a tiny piece of island, streets bottled during the crossing Manado and the airport road ...

Little or no veiled women here: we are in a Christian enclave, in the largest Muslim country in the world. There are lots of kitschy churches on the roads: many Adventists, evangelists, some Catholic buildings.

The government has tried to build mosques in every Christian city and village, but they remain empty because there are no faithful ... On the road, we see cars that display on their windshields "Jesus is my pilot". It seems that even the logo of the famous pub Pentium "Intel inside" was here diverted into "Jesus inside"

Manado Tua, the island-volcano in front of Bunaken, seen from Pantai Liang. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)
Manado Tua, the island-volcano in front of Bunaken, seen from Pantai Liang. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

I went for a walk quickly last night, before nightfall (and it falls early, in these latitudes, from 18h-18h30), in the tiny village located above "my" beach, that of the west coast of Bunakencalled Pantai Liang.

You have to climb a long steep staircase, then follow the path between the banana trees and the coconut trees. Rocky huts with chickens pecking in the courtyard, on the doorstep, alternate with dapper little houses with a big TV and plush living room furniture, which can be seen through the open French windows.

I do not know if it was because it was Saturday night, but everyone had put his sound system thoroughly ... Karaoke atmosphere in the village! People were a little surprised to see me go by, but everyone was " Hello ! " and a small gesture of the affable hand. I counted three churches, just for this handful of houses.

I did not have time to go to the "village" of Pantai Pangalisang, the mangrove beach located on the eastern tip of the island. But by the way, with the diving boat, you can see a big construction like birthday cake, another church ...

From the sea, we can see the Pantai Pangalisang church. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)
From the sea, we can see the Pantai Pangalisang church. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

I'm trying to learn some extra Indonesian words, but my progress is slow ... In the evening, I'm too tired for holiday duties and language exercises. Especially since I am building the rest of my stay.

After long discussions with Ariane and Olivier, who, like me, have not planned anything definitive, and on the advice of Tommy, the Indonesian who leads Froggies with Christiane, we decide to give up the natural park of Tangkoko, infested, he told us, with mosquitoes and frightening gnats that sting like sandflies (bites without gravity, but itch terribly) ...

TomohonIn the mountains, near Manado, we seem a much more sympathetic stage: there are more or less sleepy volcanoes, lakes, so a lake of sulfur, and great walks to do, accessible to all legs.

It's decided. I still planned to spend three days diving at the beginning of this trip, but on the island of Lembeh, where I'm moving tomorrow.

Located on the east coast of the peninsula, the island is just over an hour's drive from Manado, then twenty minutes by boat from the port of Bitung. After that, I'll go green for a couple of days at Tomohon, dry a bit and see something other than fish. At the same time, I do not get tired of it, poiscaille (except on my plate) ...

And I'm not a little proud to have succeeded, after many unsuccessful attempts, the cliché of this tiny hippocampus, below, no bigger than the nail of my little finger ...

A yellow pygmy hippocampus, as big as the fingernail of my little finger. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)
A yellow pygmy hippocampus, as big as the fingernail of my little finger. (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

It is beautiful again, I happily enjoy the last bubbles in Bunaken. The fauna of all these falls is rich, varied, but less spectacular than Sipadan, in the same sea of Celebes, off the Malay side of Borneo. (Read my story of July 2006: Sipadan: swimming with sharks.)

Well, I'm going to stop making my diver spoiled ... There is still a lot of fun here with the "little". And we all the more appreciate to cross the "fat", on occasion. Like this big turtle, who came to say goodbye. A bit in spite of herself, the poor ...

Hello the turtle! (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)
Hello the turtle! (Bunaken, North Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2007.)

It came under my nose, abruptly drawn from his nap in a cavity of the wall, by my repeated flashes. I blocked the exit, monopolized as I was by the exquisite details of a new nudibranch and the recalcitrant focus of my macro mode ...

Needless to say, she spun fiss into the blue without asking for her rest!

  Indonesia: Sulawesi - July 2007

  1. Amazing!
    I read and re-read your story, amazed I am; we will probably talk tomorrow, Helen and me, the beginnings of this fabulous trip, it is an enchantment ...
    I leave the grisaille bretonne tomorrow afternoon and hope to dine on the terrace with Hélène and Grégory, place de la Comédie, in the sun and in a truly summery sweetness ...
    I will open your travel book again as soon as I get back on Sunday night, before going on my vacation to the south.
    Goodbye Bunaken, little girl, Lydie.

  2. Amazed ... yes. But in these hard days of toil for me, I still have trouble realizing that there are places like that! Nevertheless, thanks to the photos, I say to myself that yes, it is true, it exists; and it feels good after this long day of work with Saburo (the Japanese choreographer) who did not have pity, we finished !! I can not anymore !! And to top it off, came back in the rain (cold) !!!! Well, at least, there is no risk that I get bitten by a mosquito!
    Tomorrow, departure by bus for Montpellier, rehearsal, and finally a little moment of relaxation with mom ... On the terrace ... ?? I hope ... Thin, it's July, it should be nice and hot !!!
    I'm kissing you strongly; good holiday continuation !!! Beware of mosquitoes !!!!!

  3. Hi the queen of bubbles!
    6am in Rennes and the sky is already, always and still gray. In short a new day of m ... I just returned from a report and immerse myself in your stories offer me a parenthesis of paradise before taking the taf. Lucky girl. I can only regret not having a teletransporter at the Star Trek to see with my eyes everything you describe. And in your words, you feel your wonder, which is communicative ... I reread again and again and ...
    Continue to bring us sun and dreams and keen adventures! Big kisses.

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