On the way to Bangka Island! (North Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
On the way to Bangka Island! (North Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)

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  Indonesia: Weda [Halmahera] + Bangka [Sulawesi] - March 2013

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation of an article originally written in French. I apologise for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have resulted. If you read French, click on the French flag below to access the original, correct text: 


I was (again) gone. A short trip of 15 days in Indonesia. On the program: rest and diving, in Halmahera (North Moluccas) and in Bangka in North Sulawesi.

Stage 1: Halmahera, Weda Bay

Three weeks ago, I redid my bagagain. This famous wheeled bag acquired three years ago, which has since become the faithful companion of my travels.

It doesn't look like much. But as it contains my diving equipment and my underwater lighting gear (flash, battery and charger for the waterproof housing of my camera), it weighs a little. 28 kilos at the start, 29 at the return, once it is soaked in the humidity of the tropical climate...

The pier of Sofifi. Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.
The pier of Sofifi. Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.

At the pier of Sofifi, in HalmaheraOn the large island of the Moluccas (an archipelago located in the far east of Indonesia), he took his place in a red wheelbarrow, with the cardboard of a brushcutter.

After getting off the boat, I freeze for a moment in the crowd of the pier, in the middle of the calls of the porters who rush on the packages and luggage of the speed-boats. A dizzying sensation, exhilaration mixed with fatigue.

Indonesia, I'm there!

I am exhausted after the long flight from France, the very short night near the airport in Jakarta, followed by a dawn take-off on Lion Air to reach Ternate, dominated by the Gamalama volcanothen the crossing in speed-boat from Ternate to Sofifi. But so happy to be here!

Jakarta airport, take off on Lion Air. Indonesia, March 2013.
Jakarta airport, take off on Lion Air. Indonesia, March 2013.
Ternate, Gamalama volcano. Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.
Ternate, Gamalama volcano. (Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.)
The speed boats from Ternate land baggage and passengers at the port of Sofifi. (Halmahera, North Maluku, Indonesia, March 2013.)
The speed boats from Ternate land baggage and passengers at the port of Sofifi. (Halmahera, North Maluku, Indonesia, March 2013.)

Now, for me, it's easy. A guy from Weda ResortI was greeted by the person I contacted before my departure and he took care of everything.

He takes me to the air-conditioned car that is waiting for me on the disgusting parking lot of the Sofifi landing stage, strewn with plastic waste - bags, bottles, wrappers, cups - scattered to the four winds. Forget the clichés of paradise islands that you have in mind... This is also Indonesia. Here, we do not care about the consequences on the environment. For the moment.

The parking of the landing stage of Sofifi. Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.
The parking at the Sofifi landing stage is littered with rubbish and plastics. (Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.)

We still have about 3 hours and a half of road, in the jungle, from village to village, until the superb bay of Weda, on the other side of the island.

The jungle Halmahera, drowned in a haze of heat. (Indonesia, March 2013.)
Halmahera jungle, drowned in a heat haze (Indonesia, March 2013.)
The road stretches through the jungle and spans rivers, between the port of Sofifi and the bay of Weda. (Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.)
The road stretches through the jungle and over rivers, between the port of Sofifi and Weda Bay (Halmahera, Indonesia, March 2013.)
The Weda Bay Resort, finally! (Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia, March 2013.)
The Weda Bay Resort, finally! (Halmahera, Maluku, Indonesia, March 2013.)

Here I am in Halmahera, first stage of my journey. I discover. I have never been here before. I love it already.

In Weda Bay, the dives will be beautiful and peaceful. Quiet days, disconnected from the rest of the world. Pure happiness...

Stage 2: North Sulawesi, Bangka Island

The second leg of this little Indonesian journey, a week later, will be the island of Bangkain the north of Sulawesi. Here I know. This is my third visit to the region.

The first time was in 2007 I had discovered the island of Bunaken, the Lembeh Strait and the region of Manado.

The second time was in 2010  I had gone back to dive in the Lembeh Strait, but then I had opted for the small island of Bangka, not very far from Bunaken, but much quieter and less crowded. During this 2010 stay in Bangka, I had stayed at the excellent Murex Bangka Resort, then to the very nice Mimpi Indah.

The beach at Murex Resort, Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2010.)
The beach at Murex Resort, Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2010.)

At the time, during a trip on Mimpi Indah's boat with other tourists, Italians, we went to a nearby beach.

People lived there. There was an Indonesian flag and an Italian flag at the end of the pontoon, a building under construction under the trees at the back, a few tents on the beach, between Indonesian shacks made of palm leaves.

Bangka, Coral Eye Beach. (Indonesia, Sulawesi, July 2010.)
Bangka, Coral Eye Beach. (Indonesia, Sulawesi, July 2010.)
Bangka. Construction of the Coral Eye. (Indonesia, Sulawesi, July 2010.)
Bangka. Construction of the Coral Eye. (Indonesia, Sulawesi, July 2010.)

I had briefly exchanged a few words with a young guy from the beach, an Italian, who had explained to me the project they were launching: to build a center to welcome scientists and students in marine biology, to develop a coral farm, to carry out research on the environment...

Three years later, during my research on the internet, while preparing this new Indonesian trip in March 2013, I discovered the existence of a new diving center on the island, named Coral Eye. The project of the Italians has become reality. They even welcome, now, tourists.

I sent them an email. It was Marco, the young guy I had met three years earlier, who replied. He remembered our visit and our brief conversation. I made a reservation with them.

I loved this new stay on the island of Bangka, which I had already loved so much during my previous visit in 2010.

Coral Eye is located on a beautiful beach, not far from the Murex resort. The beauty of the place, the atmosphere of the center, the dives, the peace of the island filled me with joy.

Coral Eye Beach. Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
Coral Eye Beach. Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
Coral Eye. Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
Coral Eye. Bangka Island. (Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
On the way to Bangka Island! (North Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)
On the way to Bangka Island! (North Sulawesi, Indonesia, March 2013.)

Mini 360° realized with the iPhone from the pontoon:

I just got back (sigh). I came back to France a week ago, with my big 29 kilos bag full of tropical humidity, my holiday tan, my mosquito bites and my coral scratches. Indonesia never leaves me unscathed...

????

I took the thermal shock, the jet lag. I had to get used to the cold of this icy spring, to the grey Breton sky. Back to work newspaper and dive back into the cauldron of current events.

But I have a lot of memories in my head and a lot of pictures in my hard drive. I will tell you soon, in the next articles, the terrestrial and underwater pleasures of this new trip...

😉

  Indonesia: Weda [Halmahera] + Bangka [Sulawesi] - March 2013

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  1. 🙄 Thank you for all these stories, it's always a treat to read you, especially when we enjoy this part of the world, we get immersed in it with every line, if I may say so....
    🙄

  2. A CR always interesting, on a beautiful place.
    The return is indeed very tough this year, I was in Panglao last week....

    1. @Alain: oh dear, yes, the transition must have been tough for you too... I set off optimistically (telling myself that spring would be here by the time I got back) with only a thin fleece on my back and bare feet in my canvas sneakers. I curdled on the station platform as I got off the plane, waiting for the train to take me back to Rennes...
      😆

  3. Thanks again Corinne for sharing your comings and goings, the return trip must have been really cold... Rennes/Vannes even cold these last few days, but reading you warms my heart, my head and makes me want to leave even more. 🙄

    1. @Céline: hey, hey, glad to help you warm up (virtually) a bit... If on top of that, it makes you want to leave, that's perfect!!!!
      🙂

  4. It reminds me of my stay in the Togians, not very far away, and all that. I don't dive (just snorkel) but in the peaceful island category I found it excellent. Is it as peaceful as Togians Bangka or not?

  5. Thank you again for these texts and photos that almost give me goose bumps, so much the beauty of the places, the peaceful atmosphere of Indonesia shine through and give us this very strong desire to go back as soon as possible... We're still left wanting more....what a lovely window you've opened for us!!!!

  6. I've never actually set foot in that part of the world, but one thing's for sure: as soon as I decide to do so, I'll be happy to read your (many) articles for inspiration...
    Welcome back, and good luck!

  7. I feel for the heat shock! It was almost 40 degrees in Bangkok, and with the heating almost on full blast at home, I was cold!!!!
    The great thing about Indonesia is that there are so many islands that on every trip there, you could discover a new one... at least... for us to enjoy when you come back.

  8. Dear Corinne.....Ah Indonesia, you go there for the first time and then you can't get enough of it...so many islands for lovers of diving and tranquillity!
    I'm proud of my photo book on Java and Bali, and I've ordered the one on my Bali-Komodo-Bali diving cruise...for want of a personal blog (I won't be able to compete with yours anyway!)...my books with my most beautiful shots make anyone who looks at them want to travel. For my September vacation, I was thinking of Mozambique to dive with the big guys, but I'm sure I'll follow in your footsteps to Sulawesi....
    I'm off to NYC at the end of May, and I'll be thinking of you from the top of the Empire State Building by day & by night.
    Kisses to you and we await more details on your discovery of the Moluccas!

    1. @Lisemet: thanks for your note! Yes, Indonesia is addictive, so beautiful...

      As for Mozambique, I dream of going there too, especially as I have friends who run a center there: Odyssea Dive.
      http://www.odysseadive.com/fr_ody.php

      As for my stay in New York, there are still a lot of things I haven't found the time to write about: the ride on the High Line, crossing the Brooklyn Bridge, and then a whole bunch of walks in different neighborhoods... I can't keep up with updating the blog in real time.
      😡

      I love Sulawesi. I highly recommend it, in any case, if you haven't been there yet (don't hesitate to write to me privately if you want info).

  9. hello corinne,
    I haven't had time to visit your site before, as I've just come back from a weekend in Koh Tao.
    you were right, I loved the island, its relief, its large boulders....
    I've done some great dives there too, and snorkelled with little blacktip sharks!
    I will try to quickly put the story of this trip on my site, but if you wish you can see some excerpts on the blog
    http://mescarnetsdeplongees.blogs-de-voyage.fr
    I can't wait to see the rest of your photos, the first ones are always so beautiful!

  10. Hello,
    bravo again for all your pictures and information, thanks to you I had discovered Bomba and your sister too whom I had met.
    Are prices for living in Papua really higher?
    A question for Bangka:
    I do not see any of the hotels you mention in Lonely 2013?
    coral eye, murex, mimpi ....

    And there's no indication of price on the coral eye website.
    the Murex announces a double between 40 and 60 euros with prices per person per night, full board, I do not really know what it means, is this pension full?
    if you find a moment to answer it would be nice

    1. @Pierre : Hey, hey, yeah, my sister told me about that meeting... 😉
      So, to answer your questions:

      - Yes, you'll need to budget more for Papua, especially if you want to dive. But if you're a real backpacker who doesn't mind basic comforts, and you've got a bit of time on your hands to improvise on the spot, there are ways of staying elsewhere than in a divers' resort and spending less money... See the paragraph on homestays and some comments from other travellers at the foot of this article at the end of this link:
      http://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/plonger-raja-ampat-voyage-20130303/

      - For Bangka Island in North Sulawesi, I'm glad that the diving resorts I'm talking about (they're not really "hotels") aren't listed in the Lonely Planet, that way they won't be overrun when I want to go back, hey, hey... 😉

      - Yes, full board means full board. In any case, it's always like that for this kind of isolated island resorts, because there's no restaurant and no way of easily finding food around (or you have to fish, or go to the village which isn't nearby, or go back to the mainland to shop!).

      - The rates quoted are therefore generally "fullboard" (in other words, the room + all meals for the day). You'll find information on their respective websites, and I recommend all three addresses, having tried them myself (Murex Bangka, Mimpi Indah, and Coral Eye). All three are very good in their own way (but you'd better be a diver, I think, otherwise you're in for a bit of trouble).

      - For Coral Eye, send them an email to find out their current rates, which are around €40-45 (full board) for the best rooms (which have their own bathroom), and must be cheaper for those with a shared bathroom (the place is impeccable, and the food very good).

      The best way to compare is to send e-mails, ask for prices, and ask them to specify what is included or not, if you have any doubts... Of course, I can't answer for them! Only they can tell you.

      Good preparation!!! 🙄

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