Opo the hero poses with the survivor rescued from the waters ... (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Opo the hero poses with the survivor rescued from the waters ... (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

Opo, my underwater guide, this hero

  Indonesia : Sulawesi + Raja Ampat – July 2017

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation made from a post originally written in French. My apologies for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have been generated during the process. If you are reading French, click on the French flag below to access the original and correct text: 

He is a golden guy. Opo, my dive guide in the waters of Central Sulawesi, has become my hero. Because, sometimes, I am a drag...

Beneath the surface

July 3, 2017. I surface quietly, after the three-minute safety stop at 5 meters. I mechanically control my ascent speed on thedive computer on my left wrist, then I meet the eye of my guide Opo behind his mask, which goes back to the same pace, facing me.

Opo goes back to the surface, making the OK sign. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Opo goes back to the surface, making the OK sign. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Opo gathers the blocks on the beach of Tompotika, in Kampanar. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Opo gathers the blocks on the beach of Tompotika, in Kampanar. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

He was the one who welcomed me the day before at the nice little diving resort Tompotika, after my eventful journey to reach the village of Kampanar, on the eastern peninsula of Central Sulawesi.

At 49 years old, he is an experienced Indonesian dive guide. Originally from Manado, he knows very well the most famous spots of Sulawesi. He has accompanied scientific expeditions, notably to the Banggai Islands, and has also worked for a long time at the Murex resort in Bangkawhere I've been before. During our discussions, during my stay in Kampanar, we discover common knowledge... The diving world is very small!

That day, Opo made me discover the magnificent site of Batu Tekek, off Kampanar. A reef full of life, where colorful soft corals and gorgonians abound. He is a patient, attentive and benevolent guide. He took the time to show me the areas of the reef that were the most suitable for ambiance pictures.

The visibility is not extraordinary (I was warned, in this season, in this region of Central Sulawesi, the water is very loaded with particles and plankton). But I still managed to make some nice pictures underwater.

On the reef of Batu Tekek, colorful soft corals abound. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
On the reef of Batu Tekek, colorful soft corals abound. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
From coral to abundance, fish wagging everywhere ... Batu Tekek enchants me! (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Coral galore, fish wriggling everywhere... Batu Tekek enchants me! (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
An impressive gorgon sits on the reef of Batu Tekek. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
An impressive gorgon sits on the reef of Batu Tekek. (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
I do not know the name of this coral, which is very common in Indonesian waters. I nicknamed it "burning bush". (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
I don't know the name of this coral, very common in Indonesian waters. I nicknamed it "burning bush". (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
An elegant pink gorgon, deploys his polyps in front of the current. (Batu Tekek, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
An elegant pink gorgon unfurls his polyps against the current. (Batu Tekek, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Anthias and damsels wriggle. (Batu Tekek, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Anthias and damsels wriggle. (Batu Tekek, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

Once on the surface, we remove our equipment, move it to boatman And let's get back on the Tompotika boat. And there, when I want to check my dive parameters, I discover that my computer is not on my wrist anymore... 😱

The boat is not very big and we are not numerous, there is just another couple of divers, Nadia and Akim, another guide and the boatman. Everyone helps me to search, in the middle of fins and stabs (stabilizing vests) stored. We quickly realized that what is not on board is necessarily at the bottom of the water...

Ball on board

Opo is sincerely sorry for me. "We'll come back and dive here, we'll try to find him." he promises me. I put on a good face in front of the others, but I feel sorry for my negligence. It is inevitably on the way back to the surface that I lost it, I remember very well having consulted it during the ascent and the safety stop.

As I always do the same gestures, mechanically, when I take off my equipment in the water once on the surface, I did not see that it had slipped off my wrist at that moment. I was not vigilant. You have to watch out for the force of habit, for overconfidence... In short, I have only myself to blame.

Well, it's not a tragedy either, it's just a material loss. It can be replaced. But this kind of material is not exactly cheap. It makes you grumble.

Opo kindly suggested that we try our luck in the same time, on the second dive of the day. But this time, the conditions are against us: reduced luminosity with a sky that has turned grey, poor visibility underwater and a current that pushes us against the reef, making it impossible to explore the area where the computer must have fallen... Too bad.

Opo keeps his good mood, despite the tourist ball on board ... (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Opo keeps his good mood, despite the tourist ball on board ... (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

"We'll come back at a better time." Opo promises me again. He's really nice. I don't ask for much and I don't want to be a pushover.

By the end of the day, I've resigned myself to this loss and don't see the point in ruining my mood over it. Opo lends me a computer from the center for the next few days.

The hero of the day

July 6, 2017. Three days later, I am the only diving guest at Tompotika. The others have left and the new ones haven't arrived yet. The weather is great, it's today or never: we go back to dive at Batu Tekek!

We drive along the peninsula to reach the Batu Tekek site. The ride at sea is beautiful! (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
We drive along the peninsula to reach the Batu Tekek site. The ride at sea is beautiful! (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

The other guide and Opo's son accompany us under water. The plan: to immerse ourselves where we surfaced the other day, to go down, to scan the bottom with our four pairs of eyes. "If we don't find anything, I'll look a little further on my own, Opo tells me. You'll just have to stay together as you continue diving along the reef." 

The dive is even more beautiful than the other day! At the beginning, I started by inspecting the bottom at about 30 meters, methodically, making U-shapes, but without much conviction. After a while, I saw Opo waving at us: he went to explore the bottom a little further and told us to stay together, following the reef.

A few minutes later, we went back up to 20 meters, near the drop-off, when it reappeared. He pretends nothing, his arms folded against his chest, his hands hidden, but his eyes shine behind his mask. And he doesn't resist for long the pleasure of showing me his find!

Too strong. ????

Surprise! Watch what Opo brings back ... (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Surprise! Look what Opo brings back... (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
My computer, recovered by Opo at a depth of about 30 meters, had been lying underwater for 4302 minutes, or 3 days... (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
My computer, recovered by Opo at a depth of about 30 meters, had been lying underwater for 4302 minutes, or 3 days... And, yes, too bad for the picture, he's holding it upside down... (Central-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

I'm screaming into my regulator (for non-divers: it's the mouthpiece you have in your mouth to breathe). Unbelievable! He found my computer! It had been lying there, the screen against the sand, the bracelet intact and closed, for three days, at a depth of 31.9 meters.

Opo is the hero of the day. During our surface interval, on the beautiful white sand beach of Ondoliang, I make him tell his exploit in front of the iPhone:

I'm a little ashamed, he didn't have to go to that trouble, but he did anyway. I am sincerely grateful to him. And on that day, I think that the name given to foreigners in Indonesia (bule(to pronounce... ball and chain) sounds really good to refer to my little person ! 😂

Ondoliang Beach

I thank Opo endlessly and we chain the photos souvenir, before attacking coconuts and grilled fish with fishermen of the corner. For them, the bule The ball and chain is a nice distraction and an exotic tourist subject to photograph on the phone. I pose with the group, then each of them...

Even without the pretext of the sunken computer, it was worth pushing all the way here to enjoy this beautiful beach.

The beautiful beach of Ondoliang, where we did the surface interval (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
The beautiful beach of Ondoliang, where we did the surface interval (Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017).
The blue of the water almost hurts the eyes (Ondoliang Beach, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
The blue water almost hurts your eyes (Ondoliang Beach, Central Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017).
The fishermen lit a fire on the sand to grill the fish. (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
The fishermen lit a fire on the sand to grill the fish. (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Ondoliang, the perfect beach ... (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
Ondoliang, the perfect beach ... (Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
And we are not disturbed by the crowd ... (Ondoliang Beach, Center-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)
And then we are not bothered by the crowd... (Ondoliang Beach, Central-Sulawesi, Indonesia, July 2017)

A good lesson

You have to learn from your mistakes. In my case, it still took two lessons... 😬 Yes, I admit, the same incident had happened to me before, under similar circumstances, a year ago, in Egypt. My old diving computer had also ended up sunken, at the bottom of the Red Sea. There, we couldn't get it back. It had been a good pretext to offer me a brand new one...

Lesson learned this time: I will never again take off my stab like a backpack!

In fact, twice, the same causes produced the same effects: a too thin wrist and a too big strap badly tightened on the neoprene suit. As a result, when the straps of the stab are passed, the bracelet can get caught and slip off my wrist without me noticing.

My first computer was secured with a strap. That wasn't enough. It must have come loose too. I'm going to install a Velcro system on the inside of the second one, to prevent it from slipping. Ironically, there's a "universal computer holder" on my suit, at wrist level, designed for exactly that purpose - but I lost the part to be attached to the computer strap, supposed to cling to the fluffy piece of fabric underneath, so I'll have to do it myself...

The "Universal Computer Holder" system. (Photo credit: Beuchat)
The Universal Computer Holder system. (Photo credit: Beuchat)

Finally, on Opo's wise advice, I changed my habits to unclip on the surface. I now open the clip of the left shoulder strap with my right hand, to completely free my left shoulder and thus remove my vest without contortion, which avoids any unfortunate hooking with the computer strap...

Thanks again Opo! Terima kasih banyak!

After this episode, Opo continued to play underwater models ... (Alibaba, Center-Sulawesi, July 2017)
After this episode, Opo continued to play underwater models ... (Alibaba, Center-Sulawesi, July 2017)

  Indonesia : Sulawesi + Raja Ampat – July 2017

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  1. Super article! Avec tout ce qui m’arrive depuis mes débuts en plongée, ça aurait vraiment pu m’arriver! Mais tu as raison on apprend de ses erreurs! Et toujours bravo pour ces belles images!

    1. @Anne: merci ! Ce n’est pas comme si je n’avais pas vu d’autres plongeurs, avant moi, perdre quantité de trucs sous l’eau… Ça n’arrive pas qu’aux autres.

  2. Very nice article and beautiful pictures!
    Il m’est arrivé la même tuile en Guadeloupe il y a quelques années et je n’ai jamais retrouvé mon ordi… je me console en me disant que le poisson qui l’a trouvé doit en avoir une grande utilité !
    The beach is just beautiful.
    Nathalie

  3. Moi, comme je suis plutôt distrait, j’ ai un autre ordi de secours toujours attaché à la stab : un oceanic B.U.D. (https://www.oceanicworldwide.com/us/news/news-product-update-bud/). Jamais servi, mais je préfère plonger en mode “ceinture et bretelles”.

    J’ai déjà perdu un ordi, tu penses bien… sur un parking à Malte : là c’est encore pire, aucune chance de le retrouver 3 jours après !

    Bon, en même temps, en PADI, on montre comment enlever la stab en décrochant la bretelle gauche (c’est un exercice du Divemaster : enlever et remettre la stab sous l’eau).

    1. @Robin: oui, la redondance a du bon… Jusqu’à présent, j’enlevais le plus souvent ma stab dans l’eau comme une veste ou un sac-à-dos, ne pensant à dégrafer l’épaule gauche que lors de conditions plus houleuses ou en cas de fort courant, quand tu dois t’accrocher à un bout d’une main. Bref, cette anecdote est une bonne leçon d’humilité 😉

  4. Quelle histoire ! Enfin, ça m’a surtout donné envie d’apprendre à plonger, d’aller en Indonésie et d’aller plonger avec Opo !

  5. Aha excellent, l’histoire qui finit bien de la journée ! La même situation m’était déjà arrivée, mais je n’avais pas eu l’occasion de re-plonger, ni un Opo aussi dévoué pour explorer les fonds marins. ps : tes photos donnent énormément envie de plonger !

  6. ai aussi appris à décapeler ainsi dans l’eau. Beaucoup plus confortable, moins fatiguant, et donc moins risqué. je découvre cette destination en Indonésie que je ne connais pas (connais Bali, Komodo et Raja Ampat). t’es photos donnent très envie de découvrir. Sinon les guides indonésiens comme Opo sont super. En connais des comme lui. Un bonheur de plonger avec eux !

    1. @Marc: tout à fait, bien plus pratique de décapeler ainsi… Je découvrais Kampanar moi aussi, j’ai envie d’y retourner, cinq jours de plongée seulement c’était trop court. La prochaine fois je testerai à une autre période, en “high season” (de début à octobre à fin avril), considérée comme plus favorable pour la visibilité et je resterai sans doute quelques jours de plus. Quant aux guides indonésiens, rares sont ceux qui m’ont déçue… J’en connais plusieurs, moi aussi, des gars en or, comme Opo, vraiment un bonheur !!! 😉

  7. What a story 😀 Still, it was a great way to test the strength of your dive computer, this one you can trust.
    Une bien belle anecdote de plongée qui doit s’ajouter aux bien beaux souvenirs que tu as dû ramener de cette destination toujours aussi magnifique!

    1. @Anne Sophie : il a fallu que je le réinitialise, l’ordi, évidemment. Il ne voulait plus plonger, après ça… 😀 Je découvrais ce spot à Sulawesi et, comme je l’écris dans un autre commentaire plus haut, je pense que j’y retournerai. Le côté “hors des sentiers battus et loin des foules” me convient bien. Le corail est de toute beauté et il paraît qu’on peut même voir quelques grosses bêtes avec un peu de chance à la bonne période… Ça mérite d’être exploré plus longuement 😉

  8. C’est mon premier post sur ton blog Corinne et je tenais à te remercier pour la mine d’infos et bons plans qu’il représente à mes yeux, je le consulte régulièrement pour organiser mes voyages plongées (c’est même mon outil N°2 dans ce cadre, juste après le post des “saisons de divespots” du forum de plongeur.com).

    Je crois qu’il travaille actuellement a bastianos lembeh ce cher Opo (je l’ai croisé là-bas début mai), un sacré plongeur celui-là, mais je le réserverais aux plongeurs les plus expérimentés uniquement, car il n’est pas rare de le perdre pour le reste de la plongée lorsqu’il cherche quelque chose très assidument et que les conditions ne sont pas parfaites…. Lors de notre séjour d’une semaine là-bas, il nous a trouvé la plupart des choses rares que nous voulions voir sans trop de difficultés (mototi octopuss, flamboyant cuttlefish etc…). Il a passé la semaine a chercher une hairy octopuss sans succès pour un client allemand et c’est finalement avec murex la semaine suivante que je suis tombé sur une (guide eldhart, aussi un tout bon), une bluering était aussi de la partie à 3m de la hairy, quelle plongée… et vu que la plupart des gens à qui je parle de ça sont dubitatifs avant de l’avoir vu, voilà un version courte de la vidéo pour les amateurs de pieuvres rares (NB : c’était la première utilisation d’un TG5 pour faire de la video, sans phare ou flash, donc les images sont pas très pro, les lumières visibles viennent de caméras d’autres plongeurs) :
    https://youtu.be/ePSogXSf2Pk

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