Coming back to Bali
ENI often pass by Bali, during my trips to Indonesia. The island is a magician, which always brings me back to her. The more I return, the more I love it.
Bali, my favorite air hub
Well, there are practical reasons, of course: the airport of Bali is a big "hub" both international and domestic. Very convenient to arrive in Indonesia and to leave, and especially for the connections, when you have to take a flight to another destination in Indonesia or a neighboring country.
And then, we do not land in Denpasar (name of the capital of the island, given, by extension, to the airport), but just next to Kuta, the big seaside resort of the south-west. The landing strip is at the very end of the beach, towards the south.
I am not crazy about Kuta, terribly touristy. But it's a very pleasant stopover, between two flights, when you disembark exhausted from a long-haul flight from Europe, or just before taking the return flight.
I love every time to walk long hours on Kuta BeachThe beach is a beautiful black sand beach, which stretches endlessly to the north, along Legian, Seminyak, Kerobokan. From one year to another, I return to admire the sunset.
There, in front of the waves, it is an immense euphoria which invades me at the beginning of the journey or, on the contrary, a sweet and tenacious melancholy, when I'm about to take the plane back home...
July 2011
In July 2011, the main part of my Indonesian trip was done in Flores and Komodoin the Lesser Sunda Islands. An extraordinary trip! There again, I arrived via Bali. I already talked about it, quickly, at the end of this article dedicated to the long-haul flight of Air Asia X from Paris.
But I still haven't told the rest: after Flores and my diving cruise in the Komodo archipelago, I went back to Bali for a few days!
I chose to land in the northeast of the island. I was in Tulamben, near Amed, where I had already stayed in 2008.
I love the area and I can't recommend enough a few days stopover in the area for those visiting Bali for the first time. There are cute black sandy coves and fishing villages along the coast, beautiful rice terraces inland, temples and palaces full of spirituality, and especially the volcano that dominates everything, the magnificent and imposing Gunung Agung.
In addition, it is a famous diving spot. It is in Tulamben that is located the fabulous wreck of the Liberty, in front of a beach of black pebbles.
For several years, I go back to diveAnd for those who don't dive, there is plenty to marvel at, simply by snorkeling (fins, mask, snorkel), on the coral plateaus and the top of the wreck.
Good plan for accommodation and diving in Tulamben
July 2012. Small addition: I would like to point out this real good plan of resort for divers (you have a guide for yourself and you dive at the hours you want, preferably outside the busy time slots), which is also an excellent address, especially if you are a sub photographer, and you want to discover the wreck in the best possible conditions → Liberty Dive Resort
The bewitching island
Bali is often decried by travelers who swear by the "authentic". It is true, Bali has changed. It has modernized, developed. And you don't need to be a specialist to see and understand the damage that mass tourism can cause.
Bali has nevertheless managed to remain enchanting. For those who want to take the trouble, it is easy to meet not only Australian surfers. To take a step aside to escape the crowd, including in places known to be touristy. To immerse yourself in the beauty of the island, in its very special atmosphere, linked to the traditions and Hindu beliefs of the population, for whom spirits and gods are everywhere.
The island is neither too big nor too small. We can easily cross it in the day, to change region, atmosphere. And I am always touched by the incredible welcome of the Balinese. By their tolerance, their availability, their open-mindedness, their contagious good mood.
In Bali, it is easy to be invaded by an incredible SENIENCE, which we no longer believed capable. To rediscover yourself a little. To savor the time that passes, the pleasure of living.
How lucky I am. I'm going back soon!
Bali will be a stopover, again, within a larger Indonesian journey... But I will tell you more in a few days.
😎
ahhh I love Bali too. I got to know it in 2006, shortly after a terrorist attack, and so discovered this island just as the tourists had deserted it. I went back a few years later for a few days in Ubud before heading to Flores. That was in August... A hell of a place, with an incalculable number of tourists per km2!
I dream of returning like you in the off-season and rediscovering the tranquility, traditions and smiles of this island, which despite mass tourism remains an island of zenitude.
Enjoy your trip to Indonesia, Corinne. I can't wait to read about your next adventures!
I've been to Bali in high and low season, just before and after the bombings in October 2002. But it's been a long time since I last set foot in Ubud. I don't think I'd recognize the place! I still remember it as a peaceful little town (although it was July)...
😀
I had only planned to stay 5 weeks in Bali and I never took my flight back. I spent more than 7 months there, diving every day! Magnificent! Menjangan in the north, with its magnificent drop-offs and giant gorgonians! Tulamben of course and the liberty! More than 50 dives on the wrecks and always surprises on every dive. Incredible night dives and, best of all, a morning dive at 6:00 a.m.! The humpback parrots that leave the wreck in groups! Amed not to be overlooked. The gillis near padang bai and Nusa penida for the big mola mola! I left almost 3 months ago and I already miss the island so much! I'll definitely be going back! Can't wait to read your articles!
Ah, a connoisseur... 😉 I see we enjoy the same dive sites, at the same times.
While you're waiting for the next articles, you can go back and read the ones I wrote in 2008, which will bring back a lot of memories:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/voyage-bali-indonesie-2008/
8)
I would like to stay for the winter 2012-2013 in Bali, Flores Komodo. We're going as a couple with an eight-month-old baby, and I'm looking for lots of advice and to find out if it's possible to stay for 2 or 3 months for not too much money, like renting a bungalow with your feet in the water and eating fruit and fish, enjoying the gentle way of life away from our sometimes stressful daily lives in the city 🙂 I'm a snorkeler and I'd like to know if there are sites where I can practice, without necessarily taking a boat full of divers. Thanks to all of you.
So it's finally true, this rumor that's got the whole Web in a tizzy and all the Indonesian authorities mobilized: Corinne is off to Raja Ampat 😛
Enjoy!!! 😀
😆 But how did you guess, huh? How?
That's clever, you're ruining all my suspenseful teasing... Oh dear... 8)
I haven't guessed anything, I don't hear voices and I don't have a crystal ball. This is "reliable source" information obtained thanks to my network of informers covering the whole of South-East Asia, which the CIA, MOSSAD and KGB want to buy from me at a high price 🙄
For teasing, I know you'll bounce back and you'll notice I didn't quote the host structure 😀
By the way, you're off to a good start next week ❓ 😆 😆
Your fortune is made then!!! You can sell your informants to others... 😛 They are not that reliable. Well inspired, but, how to say, a bit inaccurate....
The date of departure is a hair closer than that. As for the structure, my faith ... It would be more accurate to talk about structures.
😀 8) 😈
I've been there 15 years already... We should think about going there again 😉
Yes, it has changed in some places for 15 years ... But Bali is still worth it, IMHO.
🙂
I'll definitely be back 😉
youpi! Bali is where I wanted to go this year!
But because of the finances I'm going to Koh Lanta ❗
So I'm going to make 2 trips, mine and a virtual one with you! A foretaste of a trip to Bali next year? 😉
Oh, I sure hope that Balinese travel project comes to fruition for you next year!!!! Already, you should have a great time in Thailand. But Bali is a whole different atmosphere and very different kind of diving. Delighted to transport you there virtually in advance!!!
8)
Hello and thank you for this article and these beautiful photos. I fell in love with the island too. I was there for 7 weeks last summer and can't wait to go back. But you have to leave Kuta soon and visit the interior to find the Balinese soul.
Here is my selection of photos: http://www.onedayonetravel.com/20-photos-de-bali-lile-des-dieux/
I'm currently preparing a series of articles about Bali on my blog: An 8-stop itinerary to discover Bali, Lombok and the Gilis on http://www.onedayonetravel.com
A nice journey to all of you !
Richard
Of course we have to leave Kuta! Thanks for the links. I think a lot of people will be interested in route advice, indeed.
What a coincidence, you're posting this on the day I book plane tickets.... to Bali! It's been 2 years since I've been back, I miss it so fast!
So, did you find a good plan for Raja Ampat??? 😉
Crazy !!!!! 😀 Madame is a connoisseur too, I see....
For R4, in fact, the "good deals" I was able to find were really rootsy, as far as I could tell... And as I'm getting bored, have limited time and carry around a bit too much fragile electronic equipment, I preferred to play the "comfort" card. And I discovered that comfort comes at a hefty price, in these lands still untouched by mass tourism... So: big break for the piggy bank (and even so, I'm well below the "luxury" category... I was hallucinating when I saw the prices of certain resorts and cruises).
Anyway, I'm giving myself a dream, that I've been dragging for so long!!!! It's going to be fantastic!!!
8)
I really like your "title":Revenir à Bali and not Retourner à Bali....
As far as I'm concerned, I dream of going back.... ❓
The nuance is subtle. We tend to use "revenir" (to return) when referring to the place where we are. And "return" when referring to a place other than where you are. One refers to the context in which we are, the other to the context in which we project ourselves. So it's a question of situation, of point of view: which can be concrete, geographical; or imaginary, dreamt...
In short, by writing this title, I'm finally putting myself back in Bali, as if I were still there, as if I hadn't left the island. I'm also suggesting a notion of coming and going, towards the landmark that is Bali. Interesting...
🙄
Happy birthday Helene! 😕
Thank you Corinne for confirming that Bali still has some corners preserved!
I missed an appointment with Isle of Gods two years ago, next time I won't let go!
Yes, Bali is worth it, really!
🙂
It's true that Bali is a great island. I didn't really like Kuta, even though I must admit the beach is beautiful and ideal for surfing. Amed, on the other hand, is splendid and very calm. The small fishing villages are very pleasant and there aren't that many tourists.
The Ubud region is also very popular.
I've only been there once, but I'd love to go back...
I'll have to go back to Ubud one day ... I'll be surprised by the change, I think.
I too love the Amed-Tulamben region. The coast is magnificent, and as far as atmosphere goes, it's pretty quiet indeed...
8)
Bali, that timeless island! Well, I went there over 10 years ago... I'd love to go back, but I'm so afraid I'll be disappointed by what I remember: Kuta, the Australians' surf spot, the beautiful stepped rice fields, the north and its volcano, and Ubud, the artists' town. I also remember the kindness of the Balinese and their great serenity, their gentle smiles, the flowers they know so well how to arrange in pretty little bouquets that they place in front of the altars at the foot of their houses, the omnipresent smell of incense in the streets...
I can't wait to read your stories about your return to Bali and discover what face Bali now offers! 🙄
This Bali face still exists. But obviously, places that were already tourist are even more so.
Hello Corinne,
I've decided to go to Bali this year!
I have 2 practical questions:
1. What period do you recommend? whenpartir.com recommends from June to September.
2. Do you have an airline or a flight to advise?
Thank you 😉
Bali can be visited all year round, as the seasons are not very marked. June to September is the most pleasant period, with the least rain.
As for airlines, no, I don't have one to recommend. Personally, I keep a close eye on fares, promotions and so on.
Hello, I would like to go to Bali, in a breakfast club. I've been told that eating out isn't expensive. Can you give me more information? Thanks in advance.
Yes, eating out is not expensive at all, from a few cents to a few euros, depending on whether you're eating in the street, in a warung (local restaurant) or a tourist restaurant. Take the time to leaf through a travel guide (Lonely Planet or Routard) on Indonesia and Bali, you'll easily find this kind of information...
😉
Hello,
First of all, it's simple, I love browsing your site, it makes you dream and gives you so much useful information. The problem is that I'm in a deep dilemma and I can't make up my mind.
I'm leaving this summer for 20 days between July and August with my 13-year-old daughter and I've prepared 2 itineraries, one on Bali and one on Sulawesi, and now I don't know which one to choose: a traditional one on Bali/Flores, but the number of tourists scares me a bit, and another authentic and deep one from Makassar to Manado via Bira, Toraja and the Togian islands, where it's the distances that worry me a bit.
Would you have a word that would allow me to decide.... 💡
Thank you in advance.
And keep on making us dream 🙄
@ Stéphane: thank you for this little word! I can hardly solve the dilemma for you ...
However, I think Bali + Flores can be done in 20 days. Set aside some time for Flores, which is much less touristy than Bali, especially as transport on the only road that crosses the island is particularly slow.
As for Sulawesi, trying to cover Makassar + Bira + Toraja + Togian + Manado in 20 days seems a bit presumptuous. It's not just a question of distance, but of road infrastructure in poor condition (you move very slowly), random boat schedules, possible plane connections to be combined... The Togian islands are not easy to get to. If you want to enjoy Sulawesi in 20 days, I'd suggest doing less.
Good preparations!
8)
Thank you for these beautiful photos and stories of this magical island. We were there for just over 3 weeks in October 2011. Half Bali in Padangbay and half Flores, little Kepa at Cédric's place. I can't wait to go back, to stay a bit longer, to dive in again, to discover more of its riches and its people. But I'd like to try Papua too...
@marcopolo8356: La P'tite Képa? It's in Alor, not Flores...
😉
As for Papua, I'm back:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/voyage-raja-ampat-bali-indonesie-2012/
Hello Corinne,
I'll be back to you a few years later!
Following our fabulous honeymoon in Polynesia in 2009, you helped us a lot for our trip to Derawan-Sipadan in 2010 !!! In preparation for a stay Bali-Komodo-Flores, our first piece of cabbage arrived followed the 2nd 18 months later !!!
Our immersions have remained Mediterranean ever since... And the call of the tropics is pressing!
So we'd like to go away for 4/5 weeks to Bali-Komodo-Flores in July 2019 for our 10th wedding anniversary. We're going early but we're already thinking hard about it, especially as we'll be taking our plugs who will be 7-1/2 and 6 years old.
Could you guide us a little? Knowing that we would like to dive anyway (so keep the little ones) and pmt with them because they are already very fond of the underwater world !!!
Thank you in advance for your help and also for your blog, which is always a mine of information and a perpetual journey...
Eric
@COSTANZO Eric: I tried to reply to you privately by e-mail, but there must be a typing error in the address you entered... So I'm doing it in brief here :
- Bali: to dive, aim at Tulamben / Amed (wreck of Liberty), Pemuteran, Nusa Lembongan...
- Komodo: As you're a family, I recommend you book a small boat just for you for a 5-6 day à la carte cruise around the archipelago, such as the brilliant Duyung Baru on which I was this summer 2016 (I'm in my posts, I have not talked much about it yet), but there are other possibilities and other boats ...
- Flores: rent a car with driver to cross the island and explore at your own pace as I did in 2011 .
Good preparations!