A small cove in the Amed area, on the Lipah village side. Bali.

I like Amed

  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation made from a post originally written in French. My apologies for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have been generated during the process. If you are reading French, click on the French flag below to access the original and correct text: 

Here I am in Amed, in the very east of Bali. The coast is hemmed in by a series of cute creeks of black sand and pebbles, where the bright colors of junkungsI have already been to Amed, a few years ago, to see the small outrigger fishing boats of the area. I have already been to Amed, a few years ago. I had forgotten how beautiful it is!

From cove to creek along the coast

A small cove in the Amed area, on the Lipah village side. Bali.

I rediscovered all these little coves on my scooter, with my nose to the wind, while following the laces of the pretty little coastal road towards the east.

The walk is quiet, because there is little traffic between the villages that dot the coastline, dominated by the impressive shadow of the volcano Agung: Amed, Bunutan, Jemeluk, Lipah ...

Gunung Agung and the wreck of the Liberty

The last major eruption of the Gunung Agung dates from 1963. It has killed 1000 to 2000 dead, a hundred thousand homeless and covered the region with ashes.

It was this eruption that caused the Libertywho was then in the bay. This American freighter was towed to Tulamben in 1942 during the war, after being torpedoed by a Japanese submarine.

The wreck, broken in two, measures more than a hundred meters. It now lies between 5 and 30 meters deep, close to the shore. It has become Bali's most famous dive site.

Diving on the wreck of Liberty. (Tulamben, Bali, July 2008)
Diving on the Liberty wreck (Tulamben, Bali. July 2008)


I went there to soak my palms Tuesday, with the center Eco-Dive. But I will come back to tell you this great dive in a future article

My previous articles on the Liberty wreck

→ The Liberty wreck in video
→ Liberty, Bali's most famous wreck

Good plan for accommodation and diving in Tulamben

July 2012. Small addition: I went back to Bali several times since 2008, and I dived again on the fabulous wreck of the LibertyBut with a guide for me alone and at the right time (when there are less people)... I would like to point out this real good plan of resort for divers, which is also an excellent address, especially if you are a sub photographer, and you want to discover the wreck in the best possible conditions:
→  Liberty Dive Resort

Black sand handles


As in Pemuteran, there is no tourist frenzy in Amed. The small coastal villages are very scattered, so that one has the impression to be a little at the end of the world, far from everything.

Charming welcome everywhere, accommodations of all categories, with, often, a splendid view of the sea.


Wawa Wewe II

On the advice of the efficient Ketut fromEco-Dive, I asked myself Wawa Wewe IIIt is located on the edge of Bunutan and Lipah. It is a small resort with a dozen spacious and charming bungalows, set in a beautiful garden that slopes down to the sea, to a small infinity pool surrounded by statues of Ganesh.

It's peaceful as I like it. No dogs barking until late at night, no roosters playing alarm clocks before dawn, no thundering bars nearby. Just the sound of the waves and, in the evening, the young people who run the place strum a little guitar.

Another nice corner where I risk to tape a lot of time ...

Get up with the sun

Bali Post

Today, the Balinese were electing their new governor. My dive-master Kadek had to go all the way to Singaraja to vote (1 hour to 3 hours drive west, depending on the driver's temerity).

His family, originally from Tulamben, moved there in 1963, after the eruption of Gunung Agung. All his papers are still with his address in Singaraja. So we exceptionally advanced the time of the first dive, so that I got up right with the sun, this morning.


Here is the fabulous sunrise that I can admire every morning since Wawa Wewe II...on condition that I get up at 6:00 a.m.!

  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

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  1. J’aime beaucoup tes reportages sur Bali… hors des sentiers battus et rabattus…

    Perso j’ai été à Bali en coup de vent, 3 jours (depuis Singapour c’est facile !). Et pour être honnête, je n’ai pas aimé. Mais je suis malheureusement resté dans les lieux ultra-touristiques, où l’on se fait accoster en permanence (c’est souvent le cas en Asie, mais je n’ai jamais ressenti une telle oppression qu’à Bali). Donc je ne dis pas “Bali, j’aime pas”, mais je dis “Bali, je connais pas”, car je suis certain qu’il y a des endroits qui me plairaient !

    Tes reportages m’incitent à y revenir, pour filer directement au Nord et à l’Est !


    PS : un endroit que j’avais beaucoup aimé, ce sont les plantations d’algue dans l’extrême sud de la pointe de Bukit… tiens, j’avais mis qq photos ici :


  2. Hello Thib!

    Oui, pour apprecier Bali, il faut sortir des coins ultra-touristiques ou l’on est constamment sollicite… Mais meme a Kuta, il est facile de s’offrir de petites echappes sympathiques, en remontant un peu vers le nord le long de la cote. La, plus personne pour essayer de te refourguer des sarongs ou a vouloir te transporter…

    Un gars de Pemuteran, un Balinais, m’a dit que lui-meme ne reconnaissait plus et n’aimait plus son ile, dans ces endroits transformes en grande foire a alpaguer le touriste.

    Mille mercis pour le lien. Super photos, j’aime beaucoup. Apres Amed, je compte aller a Nusa Lembogan, ou la aussi, les gens cultivent des algues dans de petits champs sous-marins.

  3. I have just returned from Bali .. and I have also just discovered your site.
    J’aime aussi voyager hors sentiers battus. Donc, j’ai aussi été à Lipah Amed, Lovina, Nusa Lembogan ..Je connaissais déjà Lipah et Lovina.
    Ton blog est super, tes photos aussi! Merci pour cette bouffée d’oxygène ..
    D’ailleurs, j’ai allumé une gudang garam pour féter ca !
    See you soon