A small cove in the Amed area, on the Lipah village side. Bali.

I like Amed

  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation of an article originally written in French. I apologise for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have resulted. If you read French, click on the French flag below to access the original, correct text: 

Here I am in Amed, in the very east of Bali. The coast is hemmed in by a series of cute creeks of black sand and pebbles, where the bright colors of junkungsI have already been to Amed, a few years ago, to see the small outrigger fishing boats of the area. I have already been to Amed, a few years ago. I had forgotten how beautiful it is!

From cove to creek along the coast

A small cove in the Amed area, on the Lipah village side. Bali.

I rediscovered all these little coves on my scooter, with my nose to the wind, while following the laces of the pretty little coastal road towards the east.

The walk is quiet, because there is little traffic between the villages that dot the coastline, dominated by the impressive shadow of the volcano Agung: Amed, Bunutan, Jemeluk, Lipah ...

Gunung Agung and the wreck of the Liberty

The last major eruption of the Gunung Agung dates from 1963. It has killed 1000 to 2000 dead, a hundred thousand homeless and covered the region with ashes.

It was this eruption that caused the Libertywho was then in the bay. This American freighter was towed to Tulamben in 1942 during the war, after being torpedoed by a Japanese submarine.

The wreck, broken in two, measures more than a hundred meters. It now lies between 5 and 30 meters deep, close to the shore. It has become Bali's most famous dive site.

Diving on the wreck of Liberty. (Tulamben, Bali, July 2008)
Diving on the Liberty wreck (Tulamben, Bali. July 2008)


I went there to soak my palms Tuesday, with the center Eco-Dive. But I will come back to tell you this great dive in a future article

My previous articles on the Liberty wreck

→ The Liberty wreck in video
→ Liberty, Bali's most famous wreck

Good plan for accommodation and diving in Tulamben

July 2012. Small addition: I went back to Bali several times since 2008, and I dived again on the fabulous wreck of the LibertyBut with a guide for me alone and at the right time (when there are less people)... I would like to point out this real good plan of resort for divers, which is also an excellent address, especially if you are a sub photographer, and you want to discover the wreck in the best possible conditions:
→  Liberty Dive Resort

Black sand handles


As in Pemuteran, there is no tourist frenzy in Amed. The small coastal villages are very scattered, so that one has the impression to be a little at the end of the world, far from everything.

Charming welcome everywhere, accommodations of all categories, with, often, a splendid view of the sea.


Wawa Wewe II

On the advice of the efficient Ketut fromEco-Dive, I asked myself Wawa Wewe IIIt is located on the edge of Bunutan and Lipah. It is a small resort with a dozen spacious and charming bungalows, set in a beautiful garden that slopes down to the sea, to a small infinity pool surrounded by statues of Ganesh.

It's peaceful as I like it. No dogs barking until late at night, no roosters playing alarm clocks before dawn, no thundering bars nearby. Just the sound of the waves and, in the evening, the young people who run the place strum a little guitar.

Another nice corner where I risk to tape a lot of time ...

Get up with the sun

Bali Post

Today, the Balinese were electing their new governor. My dive-master Kadek had to go all the way to Singaraja to vote (1 hour to 3 hours drive west, depending on the driver's temerity).

His family, originally from Tulamben, moved there in 1963, after the eruption of Gunung Agung. All his papers are still with his address in Singaraja. So we exceptionally advanced the time of the first dive, so that I got up right with the sun, this morning.


Here is the fabulous sunrise that I can admire every morning since Wawa Wewe II...on condition that I get up at 6:00 a.m.!

  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

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  1. I really like your reports on Bali... off the beaten track...

    Personally, I went to Bali on the spur of the moment, for 3 days (it's easy to get there from Singapore!). And to be honest, I didn't like it. But I unfortunately stayed in the ultra-touristy places, where you're constantly being accosted (this is often the case in Asia, but I've never felt such oppression as in Bali). So I'm not saying "Bali, I don't like", but I am saying "Bali, I don't know", because I'm sure there are places I'd like!

    Your reports make me want to come back and go straight to the North and East!


    PS: one place I really liked was the seaweed plantations on the southernmost tip of Bukit... here are a few photos:


  2. Hello Thib!

    Yes, to appreciate Bali, you have to get away from the ultra-touristy areas where you're constantly in demand... But even in Kuta, it's easy to find nice little escapes, by heading a little further north along the coast. There's no one left to try and sell you sarongs or give you a lift...

    A guy from Pemuteran, a Balinese, told me that he himself no longer recognized and loved his island, in these places transformed into one big fair to lure the tourist.

    Many thanks for the link. Super photos, I really like them. After Amed, I'm planning to go to Nusa Lembogan, where people also grow seaweed in small underwater fields.

  3. I have just returned from Bali .. and I have also just discovered your site.
    I also like to travel off the beaten track. So I also went to Lipah Amed, Lovina, Nusa Lembogan ..I already knew Lipah and Lovina.
    Your blog is great, and so are your photos! Thank you for this breath of fresh air ...
    In fact, I lit a gudang garam to celebrate!
    See you soon