Underwater at the Similan
ENHop! To the water! We return under the surface. On the program: a small cruise to the Similan Islands, with Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon and Koh Tachaï on the way. They are the most famous diving sites of Thailand...
Sea of Fantasy
When I set sail in February 2011 on the Sea of Fantasy from Eden Divers, I pretty much know what to expect: it was with this boat that I had already dived in 2009 (see → The cruise makes bubbles and other links at the end of this post).
Update : the story you're reading here goes back quite a few years... So don't try to book the same Eden Divers cruise today, the company no longer exists!
In the crazy Thai armada which embarks divers every day on a cruise on the Andaman Sea, this is one of the rare boats to propose individual cabins, which suits me well (I do not like to pay the exorbitant supplements singlenor sacrifice my sleep for snoring or snoring in a shared cabin).
Three years ago, I had appreciated the comfort and guidance, the Nitrox free of charge, the international atmosphere with divers of all ages and backgrounds... So I decided to return to them.
Luckily, for this cruise, we were only five guests on the boat, which was designed to accommodate thirteen. Plenty of room to spread out without jostling each other! I'm delighted.
The Thai crew is as attentive as ever. Dinner is ready when we arrive, and all we have to do is get our feet under the table. The program is simple: eat, sleep, dive. Eat, sleep, dive.
My four diving companions are all German. Thirty years old, open and nice. We will have a good time during these three days. The staff who supervise this cruise is German too. Essen, Schlaffen, Tauchen
Good atmosphere again, but... more Germanic than international this time! 😜
Bad luck: engine failure at the start. And since a spare diaphragm for the compressor is also missing... NitroxYou will have to dive "normally", in the air.
Okay. All this is not too serious, it will not affect the cruise, fortunately. We will leave after all the other boats, much later, in the night. Two Thai mechanics will spend long hours toiling and sweating, in the suffocating atmosphere of the hold, to repair the engine.
Plop!
I wondered, before diving, what state would be the coral, which suffered the bleaching due to water warming. And now that I've seen for myself, it's hard for me to judge, really.
This was my third Similan dive cruise, albeit three years apart. My memories aren't that clear and I don't know the sites by heart.
I think that it is near the surface, where there were real "coral gardens", that the damage is the most important. But frankly, deeper, on all the sites where we dived, I enjoyed myself.
The highlight of the show was (as the previous times), in the Surin archipelago, the sumptuous Richelieu Rock, teeming with life, covered with a profusion of purple soft corals, waving under the current. It was a wonderful dive!
We often hear that it was Cousteau (him again!) who gave his name to Richelieu Rock, the color of the soft corals lining the reef having evoked the purple of Cardinal Richelieu's robe...
In fact, this version would be just another beautiful legend. Charlie, from the diving center Seafarer DiversIn Phuket, he explains to me that it is not possible: "It's not true, the Calypso was never at Richelieu Rock, as I was the dive guide for this expedition during the filming of the movie Les Forçats de la mer. In 1988, no diving center had yet dived at Richelieu Rock and nobody in the area knew this superb site. The English probably gave us this name, as Cardinal de Richelieu had given them a hard time in the 17th century.e century, with its navy of war, and as this rock is treacherous to navigation, they were able to compare it... to Cardinal de Richelieu."
But in fact, the real explanation would be the following (thanks to Ludovic for having put me on the track, via an article in the Bangkok Poston the Wicked Diving blog) : Richelieu Rock would not take its name from any reference to the famous Cardinal Richelieu (1585-1642), but of a certain Andreas Plessis de Richelieu (1852-1932), who marked the history of Thailand.
This Dane, as his name does not indicate, was sent to Siam where he distinguished himself in several naval battles at the end of the 19th century. He was the first foreign commander to join the Siamese Navy, which promoted him to the rank of vice-admiral in 1902.
Underwater photos
Contrary to what some doomsayers predicted, I managed not to drown my 7D ! 🙃
I know that the idea of taking a camera like this underwater makes many people shudder... As for me, I am not too worried. I always prepare my housing very carefully, without rushing, preferably the day before. Anyway, I can't imagine diving without my camera!
But I still needed several dives to get my bearings and succeed in making the pictures I wanted. Small disappointment, during these three days of cruising: the rather gray weather, which did not help me much for the underwater pictures...
And my main dilemma, from one dive site to another: the choice of lens. Macro or wide angle? Small animals or big animals?
Yes, I know. I have big problems in life... 😛 Proof in pictures below.
Where the hell are the mantas?
In Koh Bon, obviously, no dilemma for the choice of the lens. Wide angle, of course. This is THE place for manta rays.
Alas, we did not meet them. It is not for lack of insisting. We dived and dived again at Koh Bon, even trying a foray into the blue, moving away from the reef. In vain. However, they should not be far away... (But I will have a little more luck a few days later, after this cruise, by going back to Koh Bon for a day dive, from Khao Lak...)
Finally, in the "big animal" category, we were hoping to meet a whale shark. But no. Not the tail of one. It was not our day. Neither that day nor the others.
I realize how lucky I was five years ago: several manta rays, and one whale shark for my very first Similan dive cruise!
All right, then. No mantas, no whale shark this time. But there was some "big" one, though. Lots of very impressive schools of jacks and similar fish. Our tour-leader, Karin, saw two swordfish, I saw an eagle ray, the Germans saw a blacktip shark.
This being said, the obsession with the "big one" would almost make you forget the rest: the "usual tropical fauna", as I write now in my logbook to go fast. Flying scorpion fish, morays, groupers, blue spotted rays, clown fish, butterfly fish, parrot fish, angelfish, puffer fish, trumpet fish, scorpion fish...
Them, they're still here!
My previous cruises
I'm putting back here links to the posts and pictures I had put online, after my previous liveaboard in the Similan.
My stay of 2006
It was with the diving center Sea Dragonbased in Khao Lak, on the southwest coast of Thailand. I liked the atmosphere at that time, rather young and backpackers, very good option for small budgets. I hadn't launched this blog yet, but I had posted pictures on the very first sites I had created at the time, Notebooks of Southeast Asia and Diving in South East Asia :
- Similan 2006 : "terrestrial" pictures
- Similan 2006 : underwater photos
- Video: Whale shark at Richelieu Rock
- Video: Manta ray in Koh Bon
My stay of 2009
In 2009, I discovered the Sea of Fantasy of Eden Divers (with which I chose to go back for this Similan cruise in 2011). Good comfort, one of the few boats offering individual cabins, free nitrox and a square German organization, but still relaxed...
Update : the story you're reading here goes back quite a few years... So don't try to book the same Eden Divers cruise today, the company no longer exists!
😎 👌 🐠
@ Wet & Sea / Ludovic: Yes, I too was reassured to see that there was still plenty of fun to be had at the Similan. I'm very, very happy with my grouper photo: it was one of my first successful photos, on the first day of diving...
For Mimpi Indah, you're not the first to ask me for a CR, I'll get to it in the next few days, I promise.
As for the rest, I can see you're just doing what you want... 😆
Even though it's been confirmed that the beautiful East of Eden is as bleached as James Dean's remains, it's reassuring to know that there's still valid diving in the area. 🙂
And by the way, your picture of the grouper at the dentist is magnificent! 8) ...and frankly, why would your 7D want to swim? 😯
If you had the good taste to write a little article about Mimpi Indah, we could better wait for your next CR on the dragon side, you know... 😉
By the way, I've crossed Wakatobi off my summer list - the exorbitant cost of flights got the better of me - and I'm going to Murex Bangka, just after Weh (but on the other beach...). what tempted me for Weh was also the itinerary that allowed me to spend a night in Penang at the superb Eastern & Oriental, what I earn on the Wakatobi ticket I spend in a decadent palace in Penang 😆 ) and before a week in Bali (...which I dread a little in August).... Finally, just stuff you know...
Thank you for sharing your travels, your passions,
@Anne Marie: You're welcome though, that's what this blog is all about! 🙂
@Thomas: Thanks a lot! But you know, I've only had this SLR for a year and even with a compact, it's possible to take very decent photos. My 2009 sub photos at Similan, for example, whose link I put at the end of this post, were made with several compacts (mine, the Powershot A95 which had finally given up the ghost, and a Powershot S30 I had been lent). 🙄
Corinne, your photos are as magnificent as ever! I did a lot of underwater snorkeling in Mauritius last March with my Canon Powershot D10, but now, seeing yours, I realize the value of having an SLR 🙄
And your stories always give you the desire to travel ... Bravo!
@Ludo: Have you been to Weh? The other beach isn't Lumba Lumba, I suppose???
I look forward to hearing from both of you: Bangka and l'autre bled itou 😉
Very beautiful underwater photos, bravo! The photo of the grouper is superb.
8)
I've been wanting to take the nitrox certification for a while now, can you confirm that it's worth it?
By the way, have you dived anywhere other than Asia? Apart from Brittany:-)
Me anyway I confirm. outside the limitation to 40metres, less fatigue and more security.
Very good article, rich. We enjoy reading it. And the photos have beautiful colors.
@Hallboy: Ludovic, aka Wet&Sea, is planning to go to Pulau Weh. As he's accompanied by non-divers, I think he'll opt for Iboih beach, rather than Gapang beach (the Lumba Lumba beach, which I personally preferred, for its more local and authentic atmosphere).
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/2010-03-pulau-weh-sumatra-indonesie/
🙄
@Thib: From you, knowing your impressive photographic work, I must say that this compliment means a lot to me!!!! Thank you, Thib’.
🙂
@Fabrice: Yes, nitrox certification is well worth it, in my humble opinion, for recreational divers like me, generally without decompression, usually in the 30-meter zone. Nitrox is simply air, enriched with oxygen, which enables you to push back the limits of non-decompression, giving you several advantages when diving:
1 - First and foremost, safety, especially on diving cruises, where you often make 3 or even 4 successive dives in a day. With nitrox, you take on less nitrogen than if you were diving with air.
2 - since you're pushing the no-decompression limits, you can stay a little longer without decompressing on a shallow wreck, for photography, for example, compared to an air diver.
3 - finally, some divers will tell you that they're less tired breathing this over-oxygenated air. I don't really see any difference. But psychologically, it makes me feel “secure” to know that I've got more margin in relation to the deco, and as a result, I have the impression of diving more coolly, more relaxed...
8)
Finally, for places where I've dived: Brittany (aglaglagla), a few dives in the Dominican Republic a long time ago (not spectacular), the Mediterranean (Greece), Southeast Asia (Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia)...
@Corinne: I was at Lumbalumba/Gapang too, and when you go past Iboh by boat, it's pretty damn tempting 😉
@Ludo: do you dive qd mm with Lumbalumba?
@Corinne and Hallboy: Nan, nan, nan, je m'avais mal-t'exprimé 😕 il faut comprendre l'AUUUUUTRE plage, encore plus l'autre que l'autre, ni Gapang, ni Iboih : Sumur Tiga, quoi. 8)
I think I'll go with Rubiah Tirta, which is the other dive center 😉
@Fabrice: But what's the point of diving out of Asia, hmmh... 🙄 ... 😀 ... 😆
@Hallboy: Well, I've been to Iboih several times (it's a few minutes by scooter from Gapang), it's certainly pretty, but frankly, as far as atmosphere goes, I was quite happy to come back to Gapang... 8)
@ Ludovic / Wet & Sea: Ah, yes, of course, the other beach is definitely the other beach... 😆
Well, ludo and Corinne: detailed and obligatory CR for Weh and the other thing you mentioned;)
I wouldn't have dared take a 7D underwater.
Even when I'm sure of my box 🙂
As usual, the photos are magnificent!
I'll have to take a trip to Thailand....... 💡 unless Bali is the next trip......... cruel dilemma 😕
I'm back from the visayas and I finally saw lots of ghostpipe fish ❗
My compact (canon ixus960) is starting to give up, it's hard to focus... but switching to a reflex is a bit too much for me, I think I'll look at the G12.
See you at the next post!
Thanks Corinne, I think I'll pass 🙂
Beautiful photos ... it gives me even more desire to pass my level 1!
But I have to admit that I don't know if I could dive with my 5D Mark II...I'd be too scared of drowning it! Well done to you for these superb photos!
Your photos are beautiful! I need to invest in a box!
NowMadNow
@Alien: Thanks for your time! As you're just starting out, you probably won't feel very comfortable going underwater with a camera, and a precious 5D even less so. On the other hand, once you've got a bit more experience, I'm sure you'll end up itching to do some underwater photography...
😉
@NowMadNow: Thank you very much. Yes, you'll see: underwater photography adds a lot to the pleasure of diving... I can't do without it anymore !!!
🙂
@Corinne: “But where have the mantas gone?”
Well, they are in the Maldives !!
You're welcome 😀
I know, it's annoying 😡
@Alimata: Well, well, it's been a long time... 😀 It's a shame, on the last photo, you framed the fish badly, and instead we see a kind of white spot, in the background...
😆
Yes, I know, I've been unfaithful to you, but what do you want Borneo and the Maldives are pretty mistresses 🙄
For the last photo, it's Mr Fisheye's fault, he's having trouble staying in focus on the little...
Wow! Wow! Wow!
I never knew it was possible to take such beautiful underwater photos.
I guess you can't take that kind of photo with an iPhone 😉
Wonderful in any case!
But isn't that silly? Is there a waterproof case for the iPhone?
😆
@Pierre @A World Elsewhere: There are many boxes for iPod: https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/plonger-avec-son-ipod-20081027/
I'm sure it exists for iPhone now too!
🙄
You can use the case for iPod with an iPhone without problem!
Hello Corinne,
It's always a pleasure to read you and follow your adventures. Tell me, are you still planning an article on your 7D housing, because I'm interested. Thanks in advance.
As for me, I'm heading back to Sipadan in August and I'm really looking forward to it.
@+
@Safe: this article will come one day... 😉 Still haven't found the time to get around to it!!!!
Thank you Corinne for these beautiful photos and your very detailed comments. A question: can a non-diver accompany a cruise to the similans? I look forward to reading you
@Frank: yes, of course he can. As long as he pays his fare, there's nothing to stop him... But he might get a bit bored on the boat, while the others are diving...
What memories of my dives at the Similan Islands!
I dream of going back
@ Josephine: I'd like to go back too... (sigh) 8)
Hello,
have you returned to simulan since?
and what about snorkeling there today?
I can't get any real info on simulan
similan, surin or kho tao?
thank you for your repose
@Fred: no, I haven't been back to the Similan since. Surin is usually part of the itinerary on Similan cruises. As for Koh Tao, it's not in the same place at all, it's on the other side, in the Gulf of Thailand.
I would still recommend a Similan cruise. As for snorkeling, I don't really know what's worthwhile, as I don't do it much or at all...
I'm going back to your article from 2011 - we're leaving for Thailand in 2 weeks and we're going to try the cruise ship experience for the first time - 4 nights to discover the Similan Islands, with West Coast Divers. We'll see what happens to the corals there, the atmosphere on the boat etc... Hope to see a nice whale shark there too! Thanks for the lovely photos, as always 🙂
@Anne Sophie : It will come to post a small report, so ... I cross my fingers for whale sharks and mantas! Good bubbles.
🙄
Hello Corinne,
We're leaving for Khao Lak at the beginning of January and would like to know about an inexpensive diving group near Similan. Do you know of a nice club (French-speaking) and not too expensive please?
Thank you in advance for your feedback.
@Jim: I haven't been back to dive in Thailand or Khao Lak for ages... The trip I mentioned above was in February 2011. 😉 So I don't have any fresh info and I don't know anything about the French-speaking dive centers currently operating in Khao Lak or their rates. You'd have to do a Google search or go in the Asia forum of Plongeur.com, to try and get some information from travelling divers who have been there recently. Good preparations and good bubbles! 🙂