See Raja Ampat again
ENRaja Ampat ! I fell in love with these lost islands, deep in Indonesia. I was there in March. I went back in July. Same dazzling.
Kri Island
I returned on Kri Islandthat I had loved so much, three months earlier. It takes about two hours by boat, to reach the island, from Sorong.
To come back to these places is a happiness without name. When I finally see the blue-green triangle of Kri on the horizon, my heart beats faster. The place made such a strong impression on me when I first came here...
How I love the islands at the end of the world! How beautiful this place is! I could almost shed a little tear, so much I am moved, while arriving.
I found the incredible pontoon of the Sorido Bay Resort, which leads you to the blue hole in the middle of the coral.
I found "my" white sand beach, fringed with greenery.
The neighboring islet, with its small house on stilts, made of wood and woven palms, planted on the sandbar that rises and falls with the tides, is still there, just across the street.
And then I found some friends. Jimmy and Julia, current managers of the resort, welcome me with big smiles. Nathan, my favorite diving guide, is there too, and will accompany me underwater during my stay.
Ah! Raja Ampat! A really exceptional destination. Still virgin, isolated. Not easy to go there, not easy to leave. I will tell you all about it in a next post...
All info → Raja Ampat : Practical Information And Tips To Organize Your Trip
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in this very very rainy season, these images of paradise make me dream 🙂
strongly following ... ..
@Laurence: I'm way behind on my posts... Since I got back home at the end of July and went back to work, I can't find the time for anything. I too dream of rediscovering those images at the bottom of my hard drive, I confess... (sigh)
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I'm blown away by the transparency of these turquoise waters! Thank you for these photos of a world far away 😉
@Ysbilia: yes, the color of the water, as soon as the sun comes out, is really incredible... It all seems very far away to me today too...
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How is the climate in July? And to dive the conditions are they good?
@Didier: the climate in July is still "tropical-humid", we're right on the equator, so weather-wise, it doesn't really vary, it's a bit like the rest of the year: over the course of a week, you'll have, roughly speaking, a third of sunny days, a third of gray but rainless days, and a third of days when there may be showers...
What really changes in July is the wind. It can blow really hard, all at once, for half a day. Before dropping just as suddenly. As a result, there are a lot more waves and swells, which makes sailing more difficult. That's why the dive-cruise boats don't resume their season until October-November, until around March-April (maybe even May, I'm not sure).
To dive in Raja Ampat in July, it's best to be based in an onshore resort, preferably close to the most interesting sites on the Dampier Strait, as I was during my stay on Kri Island, at Papua Diving. That way, you don't have to travel too far. Because, despite the beautiful color of the water sheltered by the coral reefs, when there are waves, it's a real sport to get out...
Visually, it can be truly remarkable in summer. On the other hand, it's not manta season, and they're much rarer than the show I saw in March:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/manta-raja-ampat-papua-video-20120422/
I only managed to come across one in July... 😡
On the other hand, sharks, turtles, schools of humpback parrotfish, jacks, gaterins and all the other incredible critters of the Indo-Pacific zone are still there, in profusion... 😯 I have an impressive quantity of underwater images taken this summer, which I still haven't finished sorting out. The sites are truly extraordinary, in terms of fish density and variety.
I'll continue to post new articles about this July trip in the weeks to come, with underwater photos that will speak for themselves... In the meantime, you can take a look at the ones I've already posted about my March trip, combining a diving cruise and a resort:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/voyage-raja-ampat-bali-indonesie-2012/
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@corinne: Many thanks for all these clarifications! I'm going to read it all very carefully! So it's true that I had considered going there via a dive cruise, but my professional imperatives don't allow me to travel for "long" outside the summer period! What a shame! But I'll have to study all that in detail!
As last summer I went to Java, Bali, Rinca, komodo and Flores, I'm planning to return to the area, visiting other islands (Sumatra, Celebes for example) and finishing with a diving trip to Raja Ampat! My 2 passions are trekking and diving, so...
Another project: the Vanuatu archipelago, which would allow me to "do" volcanoes, and dive on World War II wrecks! That could be interesting too!
In the meantime, I'm going to take up underwater photography too! But slowly! When I see your photos, it really makes me want to get started... Well, I'm going to invest in some "light" equipment first, and then we'll see. I've seen on various sites that there's inexpensive equipment for beginners. I'll go to the dive show to see if I can find what I'm looking for!
I'm planning to go training next spring, ten days or so in the calm waters of the Seychelles or the Maldives (although... in the Maldives drift dives can be sporty!!) Well, right now I'm really hurting myself... 😳 but you understand me!!!!
Thanks again for your superb site, which I visit again and again!
I'm really a fan 🙂 🙂
@Didier: having tested Raja Ampat in July, I gladly recommend the destination at this time too, despite the "lack" of mantas. The other advantage is that summer is not the "high" season in Raja Ampat, so it's less crowded... Good to know too: if you can leave in June, which is really the "off" season, most diving resorts are happy to give you a small discount...
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Of course, Raja Ampat costs an arm and a leg if you want to dive there (nothing to do with the rather cheap prices usually charged in Indonesia), but when you like it... 😈 I don't know (yet) either the Seychelles or the Maldives, but as far as prices are concerned, it must be in the same league, I imagine.
If you're planning to end your Indonesian trip in Raja Ampat, it's a good idea to aim for Sulawesi (also known as the island of Celebes), as flights to Sorong take off from Makassar (often called Ujung Pandang, when you search for flights on airline websites). If I remember correctly, there's also a flight to Sorong with Merpati from Manado (but knowing the ups and downs of this airline, I wouldn't recommend it too highly).
For WWII wrecks, Max Ammer, the owner of Papua Diving who runs the Sorido Bay Resort and Kri Eco Resort on Kri Island, is also a WWII wreck fanatic:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/max-ammer-raja-ampat-papua-diving-20120429/
There are a few plane wrecks in the archipelago's waters, and certainly some ships... But I haven't looked into the matter and haven't had the chance to dive on them.
For underwater photography, you'll find a lot of second-hand equipment and advice on how to get started on the excellent Forum de la photo subaquatique (with whom I spent a week in Hamata, Egypt, last year):
https://forum-photosub.fr
For a long time, I made do with a simple compact for underwater photography (I didn't invest in an SLR and the housing that goes with it until 2010). You can already have fun and learn the basics with a compact, before moving on to more expensive and complex equipment.
Finally, thank you for the compliments on the blog. I'm delighted that you like my Petites Bulles d'Ailleurs so much!
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Fantastic! Well, now I have everything I need to finalize my travel plans! 🙂 That's great! I can't wait for more of your posts!!! 🙄
Raja Ampat invites you to escape just by its name! An Indonesian woman I met on the island of Java told me she dreamed of going there one day, and when I see these photos, I can see why!
On Java or Bali everything is very cheap, but what about Raja Ampat, between the cost of living there and the cost of diving?
@Maïder: Raja Ampat is truly an exceptional place... But to dive there, it costs an arm and a leg. Nothing to do with the rates in the rest of Indonesia...
Gee, I didn't realize... you're back at Sorido and so you still don't know the pangs of Kri Eco, Sorido's poor little resort brother, dedicated to the humble, the modest and the petty... And so you won't be able to tell me if it would be bearable for my non-diving self. 😐
@Ludovic/Wet&Sea: I'm getting ahead of myself... But from what I've seen, I think the Kri Eco would be quite bearable for your non-diver...
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I understand your emotion when you come back ... There is always a place in the world that remains engraved in our hearts.
I have a feeling this won't be the last time you go back. That's understandable. What gorgeous water.
@Mélissa: It's already my second trip there. I'd love to go back a third time. It's a place I can't get enough of...
You make us want to travel, the photos are manifest.
@Leila: thank you! Delighted that my Petites Bulles d'Ailleurs gives you wanderlust!!!!
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Dear Corinne, I love your mid-surface/underwater photos, what a beautiful bluffing effect!
Back from Komodo, where to go next ?????
I know your answer and on the other hand I have a friend who comes back with superlatives from PALAU....
When you chat with the divers on board the cruise ship, we share our experiences and our good deals, it makes you dream. I was able to afford the Mermaid 1 this year, but unlike the wealthy clientele on board, I won't be able to afford it next year, snif ALOR !!!!
The Americans extol the virtues of the COCOS and GALAPAGOS islands...how far away they are for us, and probably even more expensive than your emotional crush that brings a tear to your eye...
2013 may be for me the comeback in Egypt (deserted by tourists but not divers) or the West Indies ... ..
While we're waiting to hear about your future plans, I'm really curious to know where you'll be going at the beginning of next year!!!!
Hugs
@Lisemet: dear Lisemet, I warmly recommend Raja Ampat, as you can imagine... But of course, you need to have the budget...
I don't think Palau is cheap either. Alor would be more affordable by comparison... Otherwise, yes, there's always Egypt, of course. It's still the cheapest and shortest way to do some great diving. As for the Coco and Galapagos Islands, they're still out of the question for me. Besides, I think the water there is pretty cold....
My next destination? Well, I have to confess that I've just come back from one... I've treated myself to a brand-new getaway, which I haven't mentioned on this blog yet, but I'm sure I will. 😉
As for the next destination, perhaps in March 2013 if I can, it might well be the Molluccas. (Indonesia is the best!!!) I'm thinking about it more and more...
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NO, already gone and returned, ❗ tell me, in addition to gills you have wings???? 😉
Joking aside, you said too much to reveal the destination of this mystery trip!
At the moment I am in contact with structures on Mabul for a short stay in April..... 🙄
Hello !
Your photos are beautiful, bravo!
This island looks like paradise, and I can understand why you find it hard to leave.
She makes me dream!
See you soon 😉
@Céline: yes, it's an incredibly beautiful island and archipelago... I've already talked about it during my previous stay in March 2012 :
>>> https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/voyage-raja-ampat-bali-indonesie-2012
I am preparing new posts for my second stay in July 2012 ... Patience !!!
The photos are breathtaking, really it's too beautiful, thank you for this beautiful moment 😉
@Julia: thank you 🙂
Here's a must-read link on Raja Ampat: the article was written by Thierry Robinet, whom I know well, who lives in Bali, and whom I met this summer... A great specialist on the country: 🙄
http://www.lagazettedebali.info/journal/articles/carnet-de-voyages/raja-ampat-un-paradis-retrouve.html
@Didier: thank you very much for the link, Thierry Robinet is a reference on the subject, indeed.
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Salam Corinne, do you remember me?
Almost 3 years since my family and I last set foot in Indo (we were in the mountains of Burma), almost 3 years since we last dived! But this year we've decided to blow the budget and head off to Irian Jaya for 2 months.
From what I've read and found out, there are now "homestays" on the Raja, homestays that are admittedly expensive, but we have no choice! We're thinking of staying 3/4 weeks on the Raja islands (we also want to go to Baliem, Cendrawasih Bay and Biak), and being as slow as we are, we have to make some choices about the islands we want to stay on. That's why I'm asking you, if you can give me some islands (I understand you loved pulau Kri), dive sites, snorckling sites or any other must-see places, I'd be delighted and grateful 😉 You can of course contact me by e-mail.
I kiss you and wish you a happy new year 2013, filled with bubbles as you like them.
@Pit: Hi Pierre! Yes, I remember our past exchanges!!! Nice to see you back here... 😉
I think it's best to avoid saying "Irian Jaya" from now on, that was the name given before 2007 by the Indonesian colonizers... Let's prefer "Papua Barat"!!!!
•• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/West_Papua_(province)
But tremble of historical quibble ...
Yes, there are homestays in Raja Ampat. There are several on Mansuar Island (the large island in the extension of tiny Kri Island). You can also stay in the cute village on Arborek Island, also tiny, but very close to the manta ray spot.
More and more locals are opening "homestays", some within the rules (no more than one or two rooms to rent to tourists in your own home), others not. I don't know all the existing addresses/islands.
When these are accommodations built specifically for rental to tourists, they are mostly very rustic cabins with roofs and walls of palm leaves.
These local "homestays" are not diving centers, and have neither the equipment nor the authorization to take divers with the required safety. On the other hand, it should be possible to snorkel and visit the surrounding islands, subject to financing (at a high price, like everything else there), a boat and diesel for the engine... The place is very isolated, and the prices charged have nothing to do with the rest of Indonesia.
I'm planning to do a practical post on Raja Ampat soon, as lots of people are asking me for information... But I'm already giving you a few bits of info 😉
If you want to dive (and I do mean bottle dive), you really have no choice but to go to one of the local resorts, which have equipment, compressors and trained guides. As far as I know, there are seven of them:
• Kri Eco Resort - Papua Diving - http://www.papua-diving.com/diveresorts/krieco/
• Sorido Bay Resort - Papua Diving - http://www.papua-diving.com/diveresorts/sorido/ (which I tested and loved).
• Raja Ampat Dive Lodge - Grand Komodo - http://rajaampat-divelodge.com/
•• Raja4Divers - http://www.raja4divers.com (my sister, non-diver, tested, and loved)
•• Papua Paradise - http://www.papuaparadise.com
• Raja Ampat Dive Resort - http://rajaampatdiveresort.com (brand new, run by Papuans with the help of a Dutchman if I'm not mistaken)
•• Waiwo Dive Resort - http://waiwodiverajaampat.com/ (on Waigeo, near Wasai)
And I'm adding an eighth (located much further away from the area, in the south, on the island of Misool), just to dream (because that requires a very, very, very big budget):
• Misool Eco Resort - http://www.misoolecoresort.com
Otherwise, for a truly authentic and very roots experience, there is the nice project Kayak4Conservation:
•• http://kayak4conservation.com
The project is supported by RARCC (Raja Ampat Research and Conservation Center) with the help of Papua Diving. It was set up by a young South African whom I met on Kri, and who hopes, in time, that this "eco-tourism" development project will be totally taken in hand by the locals with whom he works. He has had them build several "homestays", in often isolated locations, for the kayakers' stopovers in the wilderness. I visited several of them, including one currently under construction... It's very, very rootsy indeed. But if you're looking for a wilderness adventure, you've got to try one!
Finally, I found a few other links here and there during my Internet searches, including this one:
•• http://www.stayrajaampat.com/accommodation
But I understand from reading forums that not all the information posted online is reliable or up to date... But you can see the islands of Mansuar and Arborek, which I mentioned earlier.
And there's this too:
•• http://travelinginparadise.blogspot.fr/2012/07/sawinggrai-village-where-paradise-bird.html
And lots of interesting information along the same lines as what I've observed, from a guy who knows eastern Indonesia very well:
•• http://www.east-indonesia.info/regions/raja-ampat.html
I'll try to compile all this in a future article...
As for Cendarawish Bay, Baliem Valley and Biak, I don't have a lot of information, as I haven't researched them yet. But that's for another trip...
Good preparations !!!
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Ey Corinne, very good list! You forgot http://rajaampatbiodiversity.com/en/
Thank you so much for your quick and precise reply! I was completely unaware of the name Irian Jaya; without your comment, the Papuans might have eaten me alive 😉
I've started to make contacts on the spot but apparently the internet works randomly and text messaging isn't easy, especially in Indonesian!
After reading what I'd posted earlier, I'd like to apologize for barging onto your blog like a big lout with my share of questions. I didn't even take the time to salute the remarkable work you do with your "little bubbles from elsewhere"; everything here is a pleasure, the writings as well as the photos, a big, big bravo to you!!!! 8)
@Pit: I hear Papuans have stopped eating people, thankfully... 😀 Otherwise, don't worry, it's a pleasure to see you pop in here. Next time, take off the clogs and wear flip-flops, it's more comfortable... 😆
Thanks for the compliments, they mean a lot to me. In any case, I prefer to answer questions as they come in. It's also true that I don't give much strictly practical information in my articles, especially about small accommodations and prices, because everything changes very quickly in Asia. A good address one year may not be the same the next, or it may have disappeared or changed a lot, and so on.
The "work" as you say, on my Petites Bulles d'Ailleurs, has no other purpose than the pleasure of sharing. I'm glad you feel that way.
I'm thinking about it now, but I'm pretty sure there's also some not-too-expensive accommodation on the big island of Waigeo, in Waisai.
And, yes, the problem in Raja Ampat - apart from the diving resorts - is getting in touch with people. It's very, very isolated. No Internet in the archipelago outside Sorong and certain resorts. Phone reception is more than random...
A new airport is to be built on Waigeo. In a few years, Raja Ampat will surely no longer be such a pristine and inaccessible place... Now is the time to try !!!!
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