Small turtle will become big
During the day, the turtles of Derawan Island come to swim under the pontoons. At night, they lay their eggs in the still warm sand.
A small peaceful village
In Derawan, a small island on the east coast of Borneo, Indonesia, life is simple and rustic, facing the sea.
The village, with its wooden houses on stilts, must count less than two thousand souls. One makes the turn of the island on foot without hurrying in less than one hour.
I spent ten peaceful days there...
Turtle nursery
Derawan is the island of turtles! A small WWF center, located at the Danakan losmen, where I was staying, takes care of their conservation.
In the evening, we see young people working for the center leave, with a long metal rod to search the sand and a flashlight.
Every night, they walk the beach to harvest turtle eggs.
When they find some, they put them back to hatch, under cover, in a small incubator installed near the Derawan Dive Resort.
A few weeks later, when the eggs hatch, they release the baby turtles at nightfall.
I was lucky enough to attend the event, along with Paul and Becky, my English friends, and Margot, another French girl who was staying with us at the Danakan losmen. One of the young guys from the WWF Center had given us an appointment, saying that they would release the little turtles at 9pm.
Once is not usual in Indonesia: for the release of turtles, time is time... And we arrived just in time on the beach to see the tiny creatures dashing fearlessly towards the waves.
It's a moving spectacle to watch these dozens of baby turtles wander the waves in the dim light.
You have to turn off the lamps, limit the photos because of the flashes... It disturbs the little animals, which then start to climb on your bare feet, magnetized by the light. Above all, don't move, so as not to risk crushing them!
The immense, dark sea soon takes them. Barely 1% will survive. They have no shortage of predators. At this age, they are easy and fragile prey.
Small turtle will become big, as long as God gives it life ...
Derawan, the turtle island
In Derawan, evening and morning, when I take the fresh air on the terrace of my room on stilts, I hear the breath of the turtles which come to breathe on the surface.
Every day, you can swim with them, observe them with just a mask and a snorkel. The turtles of Derawan are not very shy.
It's true that we pamper them here.
At the Danakan losmen, as soon as new tourists move in, Harris, who runs the guesthouse with the nice lady who calls herself Mama Rina, hangs a banana leaf on the end of a string to attract the turtles.
Obviously, they love it, because it works every time! One or even two turtles soon approach and shamelessly graze on the leaf.
On the pontoon, the newcomers, young and old, are ecstatic.
After a few days, you get used to it. But if the astonishment dulls, the wonder remains.
I made some dives on the Derawan reef, very close to the pontoons.
Not very good view, "muck-dive" atmosphere (with lots of nudibranches and nice little creatures to flash). But, each time, there too, we are almost sure to meet one or several turtles... I will post a small underwater movie soon.
Threatened turtles
The abundance of turtles in Derawan almost makes you forget that they are endangered.
This is the second time that I witnessed, in Indonesia, initiatives to protect them (remember the turtle nursery of Pemuteran, Bali). Drops of water in the ocean, unfortunately...
Indonesian law prohibits the fishing of turtles, either for their meat or their shells. But illegal fishing continues. Moreover, in Derawan itself, there are stores and hawkers who offer various trinkets made of turtle shells.
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I invite you to watch this short movie from WWF below. It reviews the threats to turtles in the Coral Triangle, which covers the seas of the Indo-Pacific zone dear to my heart.
Even if you don't understand English, the beautiful underwater pictures are enough. You will also be able to see the scene I described above, when the baby turtles rush to the sea... The initiatives carried out in the Berau region (the area where Derawan is located) are cited as an example.
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Some links
→ Wikipedia: Sea Turtle (in French)
→ WWF: Endangered marine turtles (in French)
→ WWF: Protecting marine turtles in the Indo-Pacific (in English)
→ Cheniophilie.com (in French)
→ Passion-tortue.com (in French)
→ Blog of Marjolinj Christianen (in English) [Remember, she is the young Dutch girl I met in Derawan, who is studying seaweed and turtles for her PhD... We became "sisters in pain": a few days after me, she also got sting with a stingray stashed in the sand.]
I sincerely hope that the jewels are made of imitation leather and not, as they claim, of tortoiseshell? ....
During my 1st stay in Mayotte in 2005, I witnessed the hatching of turtle eggs and the babies instinctively headed for the sea - a magical moment! How many will survive birds, marine predators and humans, too few....
My mother and some hiking friends rescued a turtle in extremis from a deserted beach. It had become trapped in the roots of a tree, its shell was deformed, it returned with difficulty to the sea after they had freed it ... and it weighs a lot an adult green turtle!
I saw the photos again recently and it's very moving because without their passage on this beach she would have died after giving birth.
I'm getting ready for my 3 weeks in the West Indies, at least one week in Dominica to see seahorses, antennae and underwater bubbles escaping from underwater volcanic activity.
The weather in Paris isn't very nice today either, so it's a good idea to take your mind off things.
@LiseMet: Hmm... I'm still wondering whether it was real tortoiseshell or not. It certainly looked like it. For my part, it was the first time I'd witnessed the great departure of baby turtles for the vast ocean. Very moving.
Seahorses, antennas and bubbles from the depths? Very attractive program ... Happy holidays in Dominica!
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Ah, the bungalows on stilts in Derawan!... I liked it, but you have to get used to the lapping of the waves against the stilts. In calm seas it's a joy, in rough seas it's less comfortable...
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At lunchtime I saw the turtles too, and a few stingrays. However, even if they seem to be there spontaneously, I don't really like the "aquarium" aspect. Without really knowing why! It's pleasant and graceful to admire, but I think I'd rather come across them spontaneously underwater, as I go about my underwater explorations.
But Derawan is definitely worth the detour. Especially if you need to relax a lot!
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@A World Elsewhere: I too prefer turtles to appear spontaneously, without the need to bait them with banana leaves. But the nice thing about Derawan is that they very often swim under the pontoons spontaneously. Early in the morning, when all is quiet, you can even hear them breathe... Derawan is a world away. Ideal for a real "break".
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I love your little "video" tag! 😉 (And I love turtles, of course!)
@ Marie-Julie: I've finally found the trick to do in the code to insert a small image automatically according to a given tag. I'm testing it... I'm glad you like it.
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Hello Corinne,
I land on your blog and I devour your articles for a few hours! Thank you for sharing your words and your images, it feels good.
I've also come across this kind of initiative for the turtles on Gili Meno near Lombok. Drops in the ocean, as you say, but it's good to see that some people are aware of this, and that every day, in their own way, they are helping to save the sea turtles.
@Marion: Welcome to Petites Bulles d'Ailleurs, and I'm so glad you like it here!
I remember encountering many turtles while diving, or even just snorkeling, on the Gili Islands near Lombok, a few years ago. I'm convinced that all these modest initiatives contribute, at least locally, to maintaining the turtle population, as well as raising local awareness.
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