Sunset on the Bakheng Hill Temple. Siem Reap, Cambodia. February 2011.

Tourist in Siem Reap

⚠️ This page is an automatic translation of a post originally written in French. My apologies for any mistakes or odd phrasing that may have been generated in the process. If you read French, please click on the flag below to access the original text: 

Siem Reap is the town next to the Angkor temples in Cambodia. My previous visits here go back to 2001 and 2003. It was crowded already. But then, uh... it just took on a whole new dimension. The traditional "sunset" in Bakheng Hill is worth the detour.

We can manage to take some pictures that make believe a temple in ruins little frequented ...

Sunset on the Bakheng Hill Temple. Siem Reap, Cambodia. February 2011.
Sunset on the Bakheng Hill Temple. Siem Reap, Cambodia. February 2011.

But the reality, at sunset, between 5 and 6:30 pm, is more like this:

Bakheng Hill Temple. Siem Reap, Cambodia. February 2011.

Impressive, right? Don't be afraid... 😀

The temples are very beautiful, despite us tourists.

The crowd of tourists is waiting for sunset on the Bakheng Hill temple. Siem Reap, Cambodia. February 2011.

That said, I knew what to expect, in terms of traffic, when I came back here... And I could already see, in two tuk-tuk rides and a short walk back to the guesthouse, that Siem Reap has changed a lot in ten years. Big ugly hotels have sprung up everywhere.

Still, I'm glad to be here, back under the Asian skies. But I'm too tired tonight to do more. Tomorrow, first day of temple visits... I'll be back very soon to show you all this!

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11 comments

  1. Even if it's more likely to be Laos than Cambodia in August, if I get the chance to go there, I hope it'll be less crowded 😉
    In any case, enjoy your trip! See you soon !

  2. It reminds me of vacation photos I've had the opportunity to take that gave the impression of an idyllic landscape, untouched by tourism, when the reality was quite different... Happy vacations! 🙄

  3. That's okay, it lets you take Martin Parr-style photos, with at least as much interest in the societal phenomenon of tourism as in the architecture.

    And I'm sure if you went early to the more remote temples like Banteai Srey (where Malraux got caught with a saw in his hand...) or Beng Meala... it would still be less crowded. 8)

    The other solution is to go there in summer, during the monsoon, it's calming 😀 ... (and it's during this period that Steve McCurry took his magnificent photos). http://www.amazon.fr/Sanctuary-Temples-Angkor-Steve-McCurry/dp/0714841757/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=english-books&qid=1297360234&sr=8-1 )

  4. I don't fancy it at all...it's far too crowded!!!! 😡
    I am much better where I am ... besides, you can not make a good glass of wine with a piece of cheese !!
    And then, tomorrow, I'm going to spend 6 hours on a bus, all to go to France!!! I'm so lucky!!! 😡
    Come on, enjoy!
    Biz !!!

  5. The lovely month of May in February - what a delight! The sunsets are glowing and more beautiful every evening, and I'm the only one to photograph them, in a setting that's certainly less prestigious than Siem Reap, but which has the charm you know.

  6. @Charly: In August, the wet season, there are bound to be fewer people. In this case, it's best to start as early as possible in the day to avoid the main crowds.
    🙂

    @Fabrice: Even if you arrive early, it's hard to avoid groups of Japanese, at least in the “star” temples: Bayon, Ta Phrom, Angkor Wat... They always end up arriving in busloads in the early morning.
    😡

    @auxBulles: Yes, the Angkor sites are more than crowded, and this promises to increase with the rise of Chinese tourism and the future new Siem Reap airport. You just need to be aware of this before you go, and not naively imagine you're visiting deserted temples lost deep in the jungle...
    😀

    @ Wet & Sea / Ludovic: Your comment made me laugh. I do have a stockpile of “Martin Parr-style” images... But even in Bantai Srey, you can't rest easy. Better to come during the rainy season, that's for sure, if you hope to be a little more relaxed. That's what I'd done on previous occasions.
    Having said that, I discovered on this third visit that several temples, such as Ta Phrom and Angkor Wat, had been “fitted out” with wooden walkways, safety ropes and staircases, to facilitate the passage of this permanent stream of tourists... Not glop. I liked it better before.
    🙄

    @ Helen: Well yes, there's Laughing Cow and Australian Chardonnay in Siem Reap... Come on, cheer up for the hours of bus travel!!!!
    😆

    @Ysbilia: I saw... 😉 Thank you!

    @David: The influx of Asian tourists in particular can also be explained by the fact that, at the beginning of February, we are in the period following the Chinese New Year... I took advantage of it all the same! But some of the tourist crowds are very impressive...
    😯

  7. I recommend going for the sunrise rather than the sunset, much more authentic and less crowded. It just means getting up early 🙂

  8. @Paolito: You're right. This advice is also valid for most temples, if you want to discover them away from the crowds. Get up early to be there before the groups and crowds of visitors, and enjoy the beautiful morning light.
    🙂