Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation made from a post originally written in French. My apologies for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have been generated during the process. If you are reading French, click on the French flag below to access the original and correct text:
In 2003, I dived on the Amoco Cadiz, in Brittany, France. At that time Facebook and Twitter didn't exist... My report had been published only on paper, on the last page of the daily newspaper Ouest-France.
This sad anniversary made me want to find this article I wrote in Ouest-France15 years ago (already!), recounting my discovery, at a depth of 30 metres, of the wreck of the supertanker. A wreck of sinister memory, which has since become a mythical diving site. So I rummaged through the newspaper's archives and got my text from 2003, which I had accompanied by a short interview with the underwater cameraman and photographer. Yves Gladu.
For scrap metal enthusiasts, Nicolas Job is also the author of a book on the wrecks of Brittany, from Brest to Saint-Malo:
My report from 15 years ago on theAmoco Cadiz (when I was young and brave and still diving in wet suits in the cold Breton waters 😄) was published on August 19, 2003. Time has passed since then, and the Aber-Benoît, the club with which I had dived, no longer exists. But there are now other local clubs in activity (like Aber-Wrach Diving, Koréjou Diving, Madeo Diving) who organize regular trips to the wreck.
I was very impressed by this very special dive. I republish below my account of 2003, exhumed from the archives of the newspaper Ouest-France.
Fascinating dive on the wreck of theAmoco Cadiz
Oil tanker fanning itself March 16, 1978, the only thing left is a huge dislocated carcass, lying in 30 metres of water, off Portsall in Finistère, which caused the oil spill of the century. Local diving clubs, such as the Aber-Benoît diving club in Saint-Pabu, organise guided diving tours on this mythical wreck. Our reporter lived the experience. [ARCHIVE OUEST-FRANCE / AUGUST 19, 2003]
9 a.m. Preparations
Stellach Pier, in Saint-Pabu (North Finistère). In front of the premises of the Aber-Benoît diving club, about fifteen people in black wetsuits are busy around air tanks, buoyancy control devices (BCD) and regulators. Christophe Lecoq and François Leroy, the managers of the club, wave to us...
9:30 a.m. Briefing
Explore a wreck is not a trivial adventure, even for scuba diving enthusiasts. And theAmoco Cadiz is really a wreck apart. "The oil tanker was 330 metres long: it's the biggest wreck in the world, says Christophe drawing on the board a diagram of the supertanker engulfed. We'll go down on the stern. That's all that's left of the ship. The rest has been blown up and the debris is scattered on the bottom for several hundred metres. »
"The wreck lies on a sandbank at a depth of 30-32 metres. The highest part is 7-8 metres from the surface, he said pointing to the top of the stern, stuck in the sand. There's already a lot to see there, so don't wander off on the broken part of the wreck. It's easy to get lost among the kelpfish. » It reminds the main difficulty of this dive: the swell and the currents, very strong at this place.
10 a.m. We embark
Two big Zodiacs are waiting for us. The wreck, there are those "who've already done it." and the others ... Marc, a club instructor, remembers his "first time" on theAmoco : "I had a pretty oppressive feeling. I don't know if it's because of the tragic history of this ship, or because I wasn't feeling well that day...maybe a little bit of both. One thing's for sure, this is definitely not a dive like any other. The atmosphere is unique, a bit magical. » No visible anguish, at least, in those who have never "done it" before. Dreamy looks, rather, turned towards the horizon.
"That tanker, says Christophe who holds the helm, he did a lot of damage to the area twenty-five years ago. Today, it has become a mythical wreck, a destination that attracts scuba diving enthusiasts. In the end, at least that's the good part of the story. » About fifteen minutes after leaving Saint-Pabu, we are on the site.
10.30 A.M. We're diving!
Everybody has finished getting dressed: fins, lead belt, stabilizer vest and bottle, hood, mask, regulator in mouth. Hup! Rear flip-flop for the launch. "Meet us at the mooring, we'll go down along the end. »
We must fin, hard, there is current. The most impatient already put their head in the water, to try to catch a glimpse of something. Not easy. The divers go down, one after the other, holding hands at the mooring line. Underwater, the swell eases.
10.35 a.m. Arrival on the wreck
A few meters below, in the green fog of the water, emerges a dark, gigantic mass, at the top of which roll laminaria, those long brown algae resembling ribbons. We are on the back deck. The hull forms at this place a vertiginous drop. The bubbles of the first divers, descended below to see the saffron buried in the sand, go up along this wall of rust, dress him with quicksilver pearls. Fairy show.
Annette, the instructor, beckons us to follow her on deck: in front of a huge cylinder, where we can still see rolled up cables, corroded by the sea water, she makes a crank gesture. A winch! We continue the descent, recognizing on the way a piece of rail, bollards (mooring bollards)... Strange feeling to be in a fantastic movie, to float above a ghost vessel.
Even lower down are other less identifiable remains, with strange, tortured shapes. There, a hole shows the fracture of a double steel floor, broken, despite its thickness. Surprisingly, the sand, very white, on which other debris stands out clearly: tanks, pipes, twisted pieces of scrap metal...
We go up slow palm blows, devouring each detail with eyes, testing the scrap metal crumbling and leaves rust scales on the fingertips. We stop for a moment in front of a manhole, inside which the bars of a ladder disappear in the darkness, sinking into the bowels of the monster. But Annette points to the surface. It's time to go back up.
11 a.m. Back to the surface
The exclamations fuse. "Fantastic! "" Unbelievable! "Huge! " "And the saffron! Did you see the saffron? » And then, once the gear has been stowed away, the first impressions exchanged, everyone falls back into silence. Enjoying this beautiful dive. Heading for Saint-Pabu. The speedboat is racing along, hitting the sea hard, with no regard for the cold and tired divers, whose eyes, however, still shine with happiness.
The advice of an experienced diver
Yves Gladu, cameraman and independent underwater photographer, lives in Brest. He is familiar with the wreck of theAmoco Cadiz, on which he plunged nearly a hundred times, from 1978, the year of the sinking, to today.
Why was the wreck closed to divers for twenty years, until 1998? The wreck had been cracked, to allow the evacuation of oil from the bunkers. And one of the grenades sent had not, it seems, exploded. The site was therefore forbidden to amateur divers for safety reasons. And then, there was also a trial going on. Apparently, the grenade exploded with another, or was carried away by the current. The ban has therefore been lifted.
Has the wreckage changed much since it sank? Very much, because of the currents, very violent. The bow, for example, has been gone for twenty years, and we do not really know where it is. She drifted, no doubt, with the current. The wreck has also turned a little on itself, and we no longer see the propeller, which we saw before. The saffron, it has quickly sank in the sand, which it exceeds only two meters. The place is very exposed to the northwest swell, and I myself was very surprised to see how a building like that could have deteriorated so quickly, just with the force of the sea. first months, the highest parts were destroyed.
What advice would you give to diving enthusiasts who would like to visit theAmoco Cadiz ? Already have at least a level 2 diver's certificate. Then, always go with one of the local diving clubs. The people who run them know the site perfectly, as well as the weather and sea conditions required to dive safely.