Diving away from the crowds in Sulawesi
ENFancy exuberant coral and wriggling fish? A little corner of authentic Indonesia? I'll take you diving off the coast of Kampangar, in Central Sulawesi!
New adventures in Indonesia
Kampangar is a very small Muslim village of fishermen, located at the very end of the peninsula Central Sulawesi. Opposite, towards the east, it is the sea of the Moluccas. I give you the Google Map below to locate :
How do I get there? The easiest way is to arrive by plane at the airport of Luwuk, (serviced by Indonesian companies Garuda, Sriwijaya, Wings / Lion Air) via Manado, Makassar or Palu in Sulawesi. Attention, as always when traveling in Indonesia, the journey can be more or less chaotic...
I'd been scouting Kampangar for a while, because of a diving resort, the Tompotika Dive Lodge, which opened there in 2015. Enticed by the enthusiastic reviews of other divers on the internet, I finally let myself be tempted in this month of July 2017...
And since I also wanted to go back to dive in Lembeh, a macro-photography paradise in North Sulawesi, I thought it would be a good idea to combine these two Sulawesi spots (there are Luwuk-Manado flights to go from one to the other), before taking off again from Manado to finish the stay in Raja Ampat...
Diving in Indonesia: my top spots
The splendor of coral
The big advantage of Kampangar, in my eyes, is that it's not on the usual tourist itineraries, there are no crowds either on land or underwater. No "bubble factory" here!
Most tourists who undertake the journey to Kampangar and enjoy spending several days there are quite motivated divers - who often already know other diving spots in Indonesia - and who are not put off by a long trip, if there is at the end the reward of new splendid underwater landscapes, where life is dense, abundant, colorful...
When to go? Good to know: you can dive all year round in Kampangar. But beware, between May and September, the visibility underwater is not always at its best in this area bordering the Moluccan Sea.
Low season: from the beginning of May to the end of September. For my part, I was warned, I knew what to expect in July and I confirm: lots of particles and plankton in suspension (On sunless days, it's a bit of a mission impossible to take wide-angle photos, with the underwater "fog" sometimes worthy of Breton waters, but fortunately there's plenty of macro fun to be had). On the other hand, at this time of year, the sea is calm and there are no big waves to crash on the beach. And the rates are also lower.
High season: from the beginning of October to the end of April. Visibility improves dramatically from October onwards, explained my Opo guideThis has been confirmed by other divers who went there recently. It even seems that October is the ideal period, because at that time there are not yet too many waves (at other times, it can be a bit acrobatic to get on and off the boat from the beach, I was told).
A few pictures are worth a thousand words... Here's a small selection of underwater photos I took at the Kampangar sites, to give you an idea of what you can expect. the beautiful atmosphere that reigns under water. Poiscaille and coral in a mess... Just the way I like it!!! 😍 👌 🐠
The beach not touristy
As far as land-based pleasures are concerned, it's best to be naturally contemplative during the day and have no need for an intense social life in the evening. Kampangar, despite its privileged location in a superb cove, is not a seaside resort...
Here, outrigger fishing boats line the long gray-black sand beach. Chickens and goats trot freely under the coconut trees. Laughing kids run off to throw themselves into the sea...
No ugly rows of umbrellas or insistent street vendors. No banana boats nor of beach bars trendy. No restaurants or souvenir stores. I love it!!!
Pulau Dua
The occasional Indonesian and foreign non-diving tourist does, however, come here to visit Pulau Dua, the island just opposite Kampangar. A path has been built by the local authorities along the ridge. From up there, the view over the bay must be superb.
As I was underwater all the time, taking pictures of coral and fishes, I didn't find the time to organize a small excursion to Pulau Dua. It's a pity. Next time (because I intend to come back), I will stay a little longer and will make sure to plan one or two days "off" to walk around more.
I only admired the island from a distance, from Kampangar beach or the dive boat...
The tiny village
Shopaholics, flee! In the village of Kampangar, you can only find tiny stalls selling pell-mell cigarettes, shampoo and instant noodles. Of course, if you can only gossip a few words of Bahasa IndonesiaConversations with shopkeepers will soon be limited.
The visit of the village consists in strolling along the few streets parallel and perpendicular to the beach, where the grey of the wooden or breeze-block shacks alternates with touches of bright colors, on a facade, on a fence where the laundry dries... Pointed towards the sky, the ridge of the mosque and the inevitable TV dishes. The atmosphere is peaceful, the people very nice.
The Tompotika, the diving center
The Tompotika Dive Lodge is for the moment the only tourist structure located in the heart of the village, facing the sea. It is a very small diving resort, at Human scaleThis is a perfect fit for me. When I visited in early July 2017, there were only three bungalows, with two more under construction (there are now five in all, if I'm to believe their website).
The Tompotika is managed by Wallacea, company specializing in cruises for divers in Indonesia, created in 2002 by a Frenchman (who has since become Indonesian), Jérôme Doucet, and his Indonesian wife Yani (Suryani Mile). I don't know them personally [update: I met them three years after the publication of this article, at the Salon de laiving 2020 in Paris] and I don't have any particular link with them, but I appreciated that Jerome, having learned my trip a bit chaoticI was very happy to know that my mother, who was the first to call me just after I landed at Luwuk airport, welcomed me and made sure that I had been welcomed as expected by her staff when I got off the plane.
I put you below their nice video presentation, which allows you to see the resort, the village and the beach from above, thanks to a drone:
I really liked the dive sites I discovered and for the rest, I am very happy with my stay with them. Opo, who supervises everything on site regarding the diving and constantly makes sure that everything goes well at the resort as well, has a lot to do with it (read here → Opo, my underwater guide, this hero). In short: lovely Indonesian staff, simple, clean and comfortable rooms, varied, hearty and tasty meals, electricity 24 hours a day...
Only downsides:
- We are in the heart of an Indonesian village, with what it implies at the level of the sound environment (roosters' songs, dogs' barking, motorcycles' backfiring, very early call of the mosques, etc.). I don't mind at all (when I sleep, I sleep), but those who need absolute silence in the evening or in the morning might have a hard time...
- No hot water (this must be part of the future improvements and I believe it has been installed in the new bungalows). The days when the weather is great, it's fine. But for the cold person that I am, it's a bit limited on days when it's grey. After spending several hours in the water, we end up finding the air, even tropical, a little cool...
- No wifi or phone signal... 😱 (And then the drama 😂) EDIT: Johanne, a reader of the blog, who was at Tompotika this October 2017, informs me via Facebook that there is now a wifi connection !!! I quote: "There's now wifi (random, admittedly, but which allows you to communicate a little with the rest of the world)..."
For Internet addicts like me, who find it hard to disconnect, the only way to get a taste of the Internet is to take a scooter ride to a nearby village about ten minutes from Kampangar. In this village, Luok, there is a 3G network, which we manage to pick up near a beachside hut under the coconut palms.
This hotspot is easy to find. It's where there are teenagers engrossed in their smartphones, between the fishermen repairing their boats and the goats frolicking... 😂 High-speed connection facing the sea! Luxury... At the time, I posted a live video "story" on Snapchat, which I then saved on Facebook. You can go see her hereIt gives a good idea of the atmosphere!
Finally, Tompotika is involved in conservation projects in the region, notably by participating in the protection of maleoe birds and the marine environment. A commendable eco-friendly initiative: the resort finances the clean-up of Kampangar beach by local residents. Every week, a dozen or so people pick up the various items of garbage and plant debris that have accumulated.
Thanks to their efforts, the beach is always neat and tidy. Top! 👍
Arfff as always the photos are beautiful and the text makes me want to go back down.
Congratulations for this beautiful article!
@Mounir: ah, ah! Glad it makes you want to go back... 🙂 Thanks!
Hello Corinne and thank you for this great post which summarizes well what we experienced 2 years ago after a cruise with Wallacea, we spent a relaxing week at Tompotika. The welcome and the kindness of the people touched us, an excellent memory and a destination to recommend!
Sincerely
Yves
Some pictures on my blog ...
http://www.yvesguenot.fr/tompotika-dive-lodge-sulawesi/
@Yves: Yes, what great memories !!! Our impressions are the same... Thanks for the link 🙂
Beautiful photos and nice article. Tompotika is one of our future destinations. There are so many spots in Indonesia that it is sometimes difficult to make a choice. But we are thinking of going to Jerome's place, which we know well for having made superb cruises on the Ambaî river : (Raja Ampat, Komodo: http://www.ontheploufagain.com/?p=8517, Forgotten Islands: http://www.ontheploufagain.com/?p=9562, ... among others)
@IsaM: Yes, I remember those cruises that enchanted you. As for me, I have never tested the Ambai yet... One day soon? Thanks for the links 🙂
Corinne, too much top, on and under water! This is real leisure and relaxation diving. You have to earn it, but once you're there, it's simple happiness. Bravo and thank you for making us discover this beautiful place and these kind people!
@Marc: Yes, I'm very happy to have opted for this place at the beginning of my stay. Perfect to immerse yourself quietly in the Indonesian atmosphere and enjoy the beauty of the underwater world without any headache... "What happiness" as people say... 😉
Thank you Corinne once again for sharing your aquatic adventures with us! This part of Sulawesi is really to be discovered very quickly before being invaded by the hordes of bubblers 😀
@Cem: and thank you for taking the time to leave a little message 🙂 I doubt that there will be hordes of bubblers to invade the area anytime soon (well, I hope so). And if tourism is going to develop in the area, I hope it will be done in a reasonable and reasoned way, with respect for the inhabitants and the environment...
Nice article and beautiful pictures, as usual. thanks Corinne 🙂
I smiled when you mentioned the rooster crowing 🙂 I have too many memories of roosters in Bali; it's funny now in retrospect, but at the time, I would have gutted one or two!
@Karl: thank you so much!!! 🙂 That, yes, roosters are just the typical thing in typical Indonesia... 😀 Can't escape them. They usually wake me up the first night, but the following ones, my brain has to "integrate" the surrounding noises somehow, because I can't hear them anymore... 😉
Thank you very much Corine for this magnificent testimony of a beautiful region to discover.
A small detour next summer before joining the Togians and Lembeh.
Continue to enchant and guide us; your blog is toptop.
@Doh: Yes, Kampangar is a perfect destination to combine with Togian and Lembeh. The only problem in summer is the lack of underwater visibility... A diver who was there for a few days during my stay said she was a little disappointed... I wasn't at all. Despite the not always optimal conditions, I found what I was looking for, with some very beautiful, rich and varied sites to explore. I'm sincerely happy to be able to "enchant" and "guide" you through the screen. It's always a pleasure to learn that my images, little stories and reports inspire other diving travellers for their next journeys... 🙂
Thank you Corine for this article!
I love Indo and I did not know this region. There are so many possibilities in Indonesia, difficult to choose and compare! After having already done Wakatobi and Bira in South Sulawesi, I wanted to do Bunaken, Toggian and Lembeh this winter, it adds another destination!
@Tony: Yes, Indonesia is an inexhaustible archipelago, there are so many wonders to discover, on land and under water! Sulawesi, which is huge, deserves by itself several trips...
A region I didn't know existed but which now makes me want to go there! On my to-do list! Thanks a lot.
Selamat Pagi, Siang or Malam! It's been several times that I visit your blog; I'm 16 years old and just passed my Open Water in Amed I know you know this place ; ) And like you, I am passionate about diving, what incredible sensations! Your pictures are just sublime, the nudibranchs are magnificent! Thank you for making us travel with each new article (very well written and exciting by the way) your blog is great! With my mom we were wondering for these last dives which camera you were using and if there was a flash ? Continue what you do it's great!
@Zoe : hello, for me there, it's "selamat siang" almost "sore"... 😉 What a chance to have spent the OW in Amed, it's a wonderful place to make your first bubbles... Glad you like it as much as I do and thanks for taking the time to leave a little note to say so! It's really nice!
Yes, for the pictures I almost always use a flash, otherwise everything would be grey-blue, without brightness, because the colors are progressively absorbed by the water as we go down (the red disappears from 5m).
It is therefore necessary to bring white light (the light of the flash) to find the true colors under water. I refer you to the "equipment" page below, where I detail what I have today as equipment for photography:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/materiel-photo-et-plongee/
Otherwise, to start with underwater photography, I had gathered some small advice here :
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/photo-sous-marine-debutant/
Good bubbles!!! 🙂
Selamat sore!
Thank you very much for your quick response (unlike mine)! Ah yes, lights and wavelengths remind me of physics classes ... thanks I'll go have a look at the links. I hope one day to make pictures as beautiful as yours!
Always so much fun seeing a new article published! Manta rays are just beautiful! Congratulations for your video
Hello Corinne,
for years your blog has made me simultaneously drool (with envy) and dream (of dives). Or the opposite 😉
I have the chance to go to Sulawesi next March for about ten days.
Which base camp (s) would you advise me for some nice dives (I am AOW and certified nitrox with a hundred or so dives)?
If I understand correctly, the ultimate spot is Raja Ampat?
Have a good holiday.
Roman
@Romain: Hello Romain,
Sorry for taking so long to answer... Sulawesi is big, very big... It all depends on what you plan for your stay (only diving, or diving + visits). I really enjoyed my stay in Tompotika, but you have to be aware that it is very isolated and not necessarily ideal if you also plan to do some land-based tourism during only 10 days. Most divers opt for North Sulawesi, easily accessible from Manado, to dive in Bunaken / Lembeh / Bangka, and that can be combined with visits of the region.
Ask about these spots, see what would be most suitable for you, according to your expectations as a diver. For my part, I really like Bangka Island, where I went several times, you will find various posts on the subject on my blog:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/bangka/
As for Raja Ampat, yes, it's worth the detour ...
Good preparations!
Thank you for sharing and these beautiful photos!
We will be in Sulawesi next August for 3-4 weeks, and we thought of doing 2 diving stops in Togian Islands and Bunaken (we also plan to hike 1 week in Toraja Country). What do you think about these diving trips or which ones would you recommend?
What we want is to combine great diving with a tranquil setting, as far off the beaten track as possible. Kampangar might be a better option?
My partner is level 2+ nitrox, with a lot of experience... I, on the other hand, am a newcomer in the world of diving since I got my PADI Open Water this summer
Thank you in advance for your answer!
Good evening,
The Togians are more famous as a superb relaxing stopover, in a magical setting and to meet the badjaos.
Bunaken is yes without hesitation but do not miss Lembeh.
Hello
thank you for this wealth of information
a small addition:
is it possible to snorkel from the shore?
is this place interesting for non-divers?
thank you for your answers
cordially
Hello Corinne,
I love your blog, I subscribe to it and go there often. I've just come back from Raja Ampat, where I'd never been - I spent ten days cruising on the Ondina. Now I understand your taste for Indonesia. What a slap in the face!
Well, it's a long trip, especially with sciatica (I wouldn't recommend the 20-hour flight experience with this problem, fortunately absent underwater), but on arrival, so much beauty!
Kind regards,
Patrick
@Patrick: thank you so much for taking the time to leave a little message. Ten days on the Ondina in Raja Ampat? What a wonderful getaway... Yes, it's far, far away, I was talking about it there:
https://petitesbullesdailleurs.fr/voyage-plongee-raja-ampat-20130303/
I'm sorry about the sciatica, it must have been a real pain during the journey, but I can see that the enchantment underwater made up for it 😉 For my part, the more destinations I explore, which gives me points of comparison, the more wonderful I find Indonesia (underwater and on land, incidentally) and the more it reinforces its "number one" status in my little personal ranking of the most beautiful diving destinations...