The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

The passage

#Raja Ampat

  Indonesia: Raja Ampat + Bali - March 2012

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic translation made from a post originally written in French. My apologies for any strange sentences and funny mistakes that may have been generated during the process. If you are reading French, click on the French flag below to access the original and correct text: 

Here, jungle-covered cliffs strangle the sea. This is one of the mythical sites of Raja Ampat: The Passage.

In the wake of Sir Alfred Russel Wallace

West Papua, Indonesia. In the archipelago of Raja Ampat, the islands of Gam and Waigeo almost touch each other. Their karst cliffs covered with jungle, facing each other, form a kind of canyon that winds in the sea, facing east-west.

The Passage is a spectacular and famous place. The British naturalist Sir Alfred Russel Wallace, who was looking for birds of paradise, is the first to have described it, in the nineteenth century, in his book The Malay Archipelago (1869).

Below its journey, on a map of the time, opposite a modern map. The Passage is at the level of the red circle.

Map of Raja Ampat. On the left, the road of Sir Russel Wallace in the nineteenth century.
Map of Raja Ampat. On the left, the road of Sir Russel Wallace in the nineteenth century.

Atmosphere diving

For divers, this is a site really different from others. From the boat, it feels as if you are sailing on a deep river. Once underwater, we still have this strange feeling of diving in the river, because of the shallowness, the proximity of the vegetation and the rock.

The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

At the same time, the underwater fauna is there. There are sponges, corals, tropical fish that have nothing to do with the bed of a river ...

Underwater, the atmosphere is strange, mesmerizing, between the bright colors of the sea fans at the bottom of the bottleneck and the green light coming from the surface, sifted by the foliage of the trees.

There is something unreal in this underwater walk, between the coral and the vegetation so close, a little like in the blue mangrove which I was talking about in a previous post.

It's funny, when you look up, to see his bubbles that seem to fly straight to the trees ...

Strong currents

The Passage a place well known for the strength of the current. When the tides rush into this narrow gully, no need to fight. We must let ourselves drift. The boat lets go at one end, comes to pick you up at the other.

The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

Fortunately, there are elbows, between the two walls of rock, which form underwater coves suddenly peaceful, where the divers can stop for a moment, before leaving like rockets, carried by the powerful flow of the Passage.

Although shallow, it is a dive rich in sensations, really singular, between moments of calm and sudden acceleration.

UPDATE. Small a posteriori addition: I slide below a short video that was made at the GoPro, the day of our little outing. I can be seen vigorously palming with the others in the juice and putting my head upside down with the housing of my 7D to take a picture ...  

During this underwater walk, we discover caves, passages in the cliff, from which we can go back to the surface, ghostly tree trunks fallen on the bottom, huge rocks colonized by the subterranean fauna. Marine…

The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

The ideal is to dive at noon, when the sun's rays plunge right under the surface, creating shadows and light.

Bad luck for me: when I was there, the blue morning sky had turned grey, and a huge rain shower greeted us at the exit... As a result, my images are a bit dark, they lack those beautiful rays of light, filtered by the leaves of the trees, to illuminate the background.

But I don't intend to leave it at that. I promised myself I'd go back!

The passage. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

Equatorial flood

Once back on the boat, we headed to the nearby village for lunch.

Navigation unreal, there again, almost ghostly, like in the middle of nowhere: the islands around us had disappeared, drowned in the grey of the flood.

Town. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

My pace amuses a lot this girl who has just landed on the pontoon with other people from the village. (Raja Ampat, Indonesia, March 2012)
My pace amuses a lot this girl who has just landed on the pontoon with other people from the village. (Raja Ampat, Indonesia, March 2012)

What is consoling, at these latitudes (we're almost at the equator), is that the rain is warm... It's a change from the Breton drizzle!


Despite the humidity, I decided, with great care, to open the waterproof case of the camera, to swap my wide angle lens for the macro (see → Diving and photo: my equipment) in anticipation of the next dive. Because it's still a shame not to be able to do macro on a site bearing the promising name of Nudibranch Rock ...

This small stop also gave me the opportunity to exhibit my beautiful poncho of rain, if it is, on the pontoon. I even took the pose for the picture.

Guaranteed success with the people and children of the village!


Rain. Raja Ampat, Papua, Indonesia. March 2012.

→ To see all the articles about my dives at Raja Ampat : a click here !

  Indonesia: Raja Ampat + Bali - March 2012

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  1. but you put me mouth watering !! I'm looking forward to the nudibranch rock pictures ... Yum! NOT;))

  2. really funny this passage, the colors are special, I like the side a little greenish at times.
    By the way, I did read? nudibranch rock..... I knew that the nudibranch post was coming! 😛

    1. @Laurence: I have a lot of delay in my posts ... And I have already left for Indonesia. Tomorrow, I'll be back ... to Raja Ampat !!!!
      I promise to do a post dedicated to nudibranchs just for you... 😉

    2. back to Rajat Ampat !!!
      Youpi, that means lots of beautiful pictures to come!
      Obviously you have "cracked" for this destination !!
      I'll take you up on the nudi post and you'll be able to put in plenty with this new trip 😀

    3. @Laurence: yes, I fell for Raja Ampat. Big big piggy bank, but it's worth it. I made more wide-angle photos than macros, there, but I have something to do a little special page "nudis" very soon, promised!

  3. Hello Corinne,

    I just discovered your blog.
    Thank you very much for this diving in picture.

    Your photos really make you want to go to this place, even in the rain 🙂

  4. I still see some great photos of diving! No chance for the deluge but it happens so often in Asia! very sexy otherwise the picture 😀

  5. Really the passage will remain in our memories as a particular and unclassifiable spot: impression to make the hydrospeed or spin at 1000 turns minutes at times then plunge into a small quiet river to others. The water is greenish which increases the power of the colors of the corals. And then the trip through Kabui Bay is beautiful. Really an exceptional dive, but reserved for experienced divers under penalty of a diving accident.