Ah! The joys of night bus<\/em>... You come out with a worm-eaten back, a stiff neck, bad knees, a foggy mind and tired eyes, after long hours of sleeplessness.<\/p>\n There are the bumps in the road, full of potholes. The daring maneuvers of the driver, who has mastered Indonesian-style driving (I honk and overtake). The sudden burst of bright light at bathroom stops. The loud snoring of a belly-flapping neighbor just behind. Not forgetting the delicious melodies of syrupy Indonesian songs that the bus's loudspeakers suddenly start spewing out for no reason, in the wee hours of the night...<\/p>\n All right, then. The nice thing, though, is that you can practice your Bahasa Indonesia<\/em> with the other travelers. A little lady pushes herself onto a bench and beckons me to come and sit next to her. Here I go again in the inevitable exchange of courtesies, punctuated by big smiles...<\/p>\n Dari mana? <\/em>Where are you from? Saya orang perancis<\/em>, I am French. Yes, I travel alone<\/a>. Yes, I speak a little Indonesian... But just a little, eh? setikit setikit<\/em>I've already used up my meagre vocabulary! What's more, I've forgotten my Small Indonesian pocket<\/a> at home.<\/p>\n The other nice thing is that you meet new people. Three years ago, I made friends with a Dutch family on the Litha bus (which was far more comfortable than the ones I took this year). Afterwards, I even continued my journey as far as the Togian Islands<\/a> with them. This time it's a young Norwegian, Sebastian, who lands in the seat next to mine.<\/p>\n He also travels alone. He's been around Africa and India. But this is his first time in Indonesia.<\/p>\n Like me, he has his little tricks for coping with long bus journeys: an iPhone full of music, an airplane pillow to support the back of the neck, and a little wool to combat the polar cold of the air-conditioning that's systematically cranked up to the max. We burst out laughing when we realize how ridiculous we are, trying in vain to optimize the narrow comfort of our barely reclining seats, with our little inflatable bladders wedged around our necks.<\/p>\n At dawn, we arrive in Rantepao. Here, I'll be the guide.<\/p>\n I haven't forgotten anything, I recognize everything. I make the bus stop in front of the restaurant Riman<\/em>north of the city. I need a coffee. A good kopi<\/em> black and fragrant, as they know so well how to do it here in Toraja country. Despite my fatigue, I'm so, so happy to be here!<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Toraja country has to be earned! From Manado (North Sulawesi), you must first fly to Makassar in the south, a one-and-a-half-hour flight. From there, it's an 8-10 hour bus ride to Rantepao.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1731,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"tpgb_global_settings":"","_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[125],"tags":[26,42,221],"class_list":["post-1730","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyage-sulawesi-indonesie-2010","tag-indonesie","tag-sulawesi","tag-toraja"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus.jpg?wsr","tpgb_featured_images":{"full":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus.jpg?wsr",700,467,false],"tp-image-grid":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus-700x700.jpg?wsr",700,700,true],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus-250x250.jpg?wsr",250,250,true],"medium":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus-390x260.jpg?wsr",390,260,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus.jpg?wsr",700,467,false],"large":["https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus.jpg?wsr",700,467,false],"default":"https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/plugins\/the-plus-addons-for-block-editor\/assets\/images\/tpgb-placeholder.jpg"},"tpgb_post_meta_info":{"get_date":"12 July 2010","get_modified_date":"5 November 2018","category_list":{"category":[{"term_id":125,"name":"Indon\u00e9sie : Sulawesi - juillet 2010","slug":"voyage-sulawesi-indonesie-2010","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":130,"taxonomy":"category","description":"Voyage \u00e0 Sulawesi, appel\u00e9e aussi \u00eele de C\u00e9l\u00e8bes.\u00a0Plong\u00e9es \u00e0 Bangka et Lembeh (nord-est). Visite du pays Toraja autour de Rantepao (sud-ouest).","parent":0,"count":15,"filter":"raw","term_order":"35"}],"post_tag":[{"term_id":26,"name":"Indon\u00e9sie","slug":"indonesie","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":26,"taxonomy":"post_tag","description":"Entre oc\u00e9an Indien et oc\u00e9an Pacifique, au c\u0153ur du Triangle de Corail<\/a>, l'Indon\u00e9sie est \u00e0 mes yeux la plus belle des destinations pour la plong\u00e9e sous-marine. Impossible de se lasser de cet archipel immense, s'\u00e9tirant sur trois fuseaux horaires. Je vous emm\u00e8ne explorer ces fonds d'une richesse extraordinaire, de Bali<\/a> \u00e0\u00a0Sulawesi<\/a>, de Komodo<\/a> \u00e0 Raja Ampat<\/a>, de Born\u00e9o<\/a> aux Moluques<\/a>...","parent":0,"count":182,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0"},{"term_id":42,"name":"Sulawesi","slug":"sulawesi","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":42,"taxonomy":"post_tag","description":"L'\u00eele de Sulawesi en Indon\u00e9sie est une source de bonheur in\u00e9puisable pour les voyageurs amoureux de la nature, sur terre comme sous l'eau...","parent":0,"count":44,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0"},{"term_id":221,"name":"Toraja","slug":"toraja","term_group":0,"term_taxonomy_id":226,"taxonomy":"post_tag","description":"Cette r\u00e9gion de l'\u00eele de Sulawesi (Indon\u00e9sie) m\u00e9rite vraiment le d\u00e9tour. Des paysages magnifiques, des traditions fascinantes, un accueil chaleureux.","parent":0,"count":10,"filter":"raw","term_order":"0"}]},"author_name":"Corinne Bourbeillon","author_url":"https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/en\/author\/cbourbeillon\/","author_email":"corinne.pbda@gmail.com","author_website":"https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/corinne-bourbeillon\/","author_description":"Journaliste, plongeuse et\u00a0photographe sous-marine, Corinne adore faire des bulles avec les\u00a0poissons\u00a0! La beaut\u00e9 du monde et\u00a0de\u00a0l'oc\u00e9an lui ont inspir\u00e9 ce blog. \r\n\r\nEn savoir plus<\/a>","author_facebook":"","author_twitter":"","author_instagram":"","author_role":["administrator"],"author_firstname":"Corinne","author_lastname":"Bourbeillon","user_login":"cbourbeillon","author_avatar":"![\"The](\"https:\/\/petitesbullesdailleurs.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/07\/nightbus.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nSaya orang perancis<\/h2>\n
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