Offrandes au temple de Lempuyang. Région d’Amed et Amlapura. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
Offerings at the temple of Lempuyang. Amed and Amlapura region. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

Balinese ride: rice fields, temples and markets

  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

Dear English-speaking readers, this page is an automatic Google translation from a post originally written in French. My apologies for the weird sentences and the funny mistakes that could have been generated during the process. If you can read French, the original and correct version can be found here:

Sana, one of the young guys who work at Wawa Wewe II, offered me a ride inside the motorcycle Amed area on Friday. On the program: rice fields, temples, markets and ... cockfighting (yes, I went back to an arena of gallinaceans, like in the Phillippines !).

Rice fields and market

So here we go, under a gray sky, to the heights. For the first time since my arrival, it is a little less beautiful. But it's not bad for driving.

It's amazing, just dig a few miles inland to find yourself in a greener, more humid area. With pretty rice terraces, bits of fresh and lush forest.

Rizières dans la région d’Amed. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
Rice fields in the Amed region. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)
Rizières dans la région d’Amed. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
Rice fields in the Amed region. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

First stop and detour to start on the road to Tulamben, to refuel at the gas station (the liter of gasoline here is currently 6000Rp, about 0.42 euro cents, which is huge for Indonesians, they also saw prices at the pump fly, there were even big demonstrations in Jakarta because of the price of oil, in short ...).

Second stop at the Culik market where I buy a scarf belt, to go with the sarong that I will have to bring to the temple. People are, as always, very nice and laugh when I draw my camera to shine on their stalls.

Au marché de Culik. (Amed, Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
At the Culik market. (Amed, Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

Prayer at Pura Lempuyang

We stop first at Pura Lempuyang, actually made up of two temples, a little one with just a sacred pond and a big one with huge stairs adorned with dragons.

On a clear day, the view must be spectacular. Unfortunately, with all these clouds, difficult to appreciate the panorama at its true value.

We knot the sarongs. Then I imitate Sana, who buys offerings, and lights the sticks of incense.

Once sitting cross-legged in front of, uh ... the altar, with your hands turned to the sky, you have to take a flower three times in another small basket of offerings at our feet, make a small circular gesture, then lay the petals in the hair, then behind both ears. After that, pause time, clasped hands, for a prayer. Then we get sprinkled with water ... uh, blessed, by the priest on duty, all dressed in white.

We finish the prayer by having water poured on our hands, which we must drink or pretend to drink, three times, then sticking grains of rice on the forehead and the temples.

Even if it does not have great significance for me, I enjoyed it, this little time of prayer in this great quasi-desert temple. On the way, we met only Balinese in sarong, with their offerings. Not a single pale face.

Offrandes au temple de Lempuyang. Région d’Amed et Amlapura. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
Offerings at the temple of Lempuyang. Amed and Amlapura region. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

Lunch and shopping in Amlapura

Lunch break at the marketAmlapura (26 000 Rp for two, less than 2 €!). I also take the opportunity to change my euros to a better exchange rate here, because it is the big city of the region. Here I am again millionaire in rupees!

Small shopping stop at the market, then the big supermarket of the corner, Harry's, where I slam a few tens of thousands of rupees (in fact, € 5) for a jacket and a pair of new flip flops ...

Au marché d’Amlapura, Lady Di clonée en dizaines d’exemplaires sert de mannequin. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
At the Amlapura market, Lady Di cloned in dozens of copies serves as a model. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

Sana took the opportunity to flirt with the girls on the parking lot, with an unstoppable tactic: direct exchange of mobile numbers with the promise of SMS.

At the age of 21, my young guide explained to me in his approximate English that his friends are making fun of him, because he was dumped by his previous girl ... It is therefore necessary at all costs that he found another, quickly!

The palace of Tirta Gangga

L'attraction favorite des gamins : le bassin aux poissons de Tirta Gangga. (Région d’Amlapura, Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
The favorite attraction of the kids: the Tirta Gangga fish pond. (Amlapura Region, Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

We take the road to visit then, a few kilometers away, the water palace of Ujung, built around 1920 by the last king of Karangasem.

There are few people, just a few Asian tourists and locals. It is an amazing building by the sea, in the middle of a large park with pretty lotus basins, soothing.

Then we stop at this other palace, not far from there, built by the same king, much more frequented and better known, the palace of Tirta Gangga (photo opposite).

I already knew him, having visited him during a previous stay in Bali. It's a bit of the must-see site in the area.

The place, certainly very touristy, is really pretty and rather pleasant. I am delighted to rediscover it. I particularly like the big pool filled with huge fish, which we cross by jumping from slab to slab.

On peut traverser le bassin de Tirta Gangga en passant de dalle en dalle.(Région d’Amlapura, Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
You can cross the Tirta Gangga Basin from slab to slab (Amlapura Region, Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

A little fight of roosters?

Finally, Sana can hardly believe me when I tell him that the Filipinos, like the Balinese, enjoy the cockfights a lot and organize lots of them. And they bet too? But yes but yes !

Same scenario as in Siquijor, Philippines (read: The roosters are fighting on Sunday, last February article). Only men around the little arena clay and everyone who gets excited at the time of paris.

Sana put a few thousand rupees, which he will obviously lose ... He is disappointed. He thought that my presence would bring him luck.

C'est le moment de faire des paris dans l'arène de combats de coqs, près d'Ujung. Région d'Amed et Amlapura. (Bali, Indonésie, juillet 2008)
It's time to make bets in the cockfighting arena near Ujung. Amed and Amlapura region. (Bali, Indonesia, July 2008)

Stroll along the coastal road

The next day, I go explore alone on my bike the beautiful little coastal road to the south. With each lace, from the top of a promontory, we discover a new cove of black sand, with its small boats lined up, and the sea, as far as the eye can see ... It's beautiful, it's beautiful! I then stray far beyond the village of Aas, long after the scrap lighthouse, far down the road, somewhere between Seraya and Ujung.

Wherever I go, I am still the Queen of England, greeted and enthusiastically challenged by the locals. "Hello, mister! Hello, mister! " (In Indonesia, all foreigners are given "mister", whether they are men or women.) I distribute small gestures to the right and to the left, as I know how to do so well, and I continue on my way.

Just before a rickety bridge, vague imitation of that of the river Kwai, I opt for the small road on the left, which goes down to the "Pantai", the beach, affirms a guy to whom I ask my way. And I discover there, down a tiny village full of goats, cows and children, a village where no one speaks English, a beautiful, perfect beach. A bow of black sand, real sand, without any stones in it, surrounded by small cliffs.

There are the fishing boats, and a busy family emptying the nets, watching me curiously. The exchange will be limited, given the small extent of my Bahasa Indonesia. The teenager who puts the net in the big bag that holds him two little children speaks English as badly as me Indonesian.

Discharged batteries ... no pictures!

I take a long break on this beautiful beach, which is called Pantai Soan or Sohang, I do not know. I transcribe approximately the name given to me by the teenager of the fishing family ... This beautiful beach, from where you can see both the Lombok Islands and the two Nusa (Lembongan and Penida), well, I can not even show it to you! I ran out of batteries!

The spare batteries I took were unloaded. And in the area, not a warung had no batteries other than those cursed local ABC batteries, not powerful enough for my camera.

Never mind. If one day you follow me like this splendid little coastal road, fork off the yellow scrap bridge, follow the bad road with little speed, hurry to the children, do not crush the hens and stop at height a flight of steps on your right. It's here.

Update from 19.08.2009 & #160 ;: Discover images of this beach (Pantai Songean, his real name) in this article, posted a year later:
→ Bali: they found "my" beach

La belle Songean Beach, au sud d'Amed, à Bali. (Photo : Gregory Batardon)
The beautiful Songean Beach, south of Amed, Bali. (Photo: Gregory Batardon)


  Indonesia: Bali - July 2008

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  1. Hi Corinne

    It is always a pleasure to read you, your stories remind me of my stays in Bali, the morning ritual on the doorstep, natural and generous smiles, etc.
    Me, I just returned from Malaysia where I followed your advice since I took the dive with my little level 1 in Sipadan (Point Baracuda, South Point and Mabul), they accepted me phew and it was AWESOME :-).

    Thanks again and see you soon 😉 8)

    Bye @ +

  2. @ Framac:

    Ah, Sipadan! I'm really happy that you were able to dive there. It is indeed a fantastic site. Which remains, by far, my most impressive memory of diving ... I see that you are equally enthusiastic.

    But beware, when you dip your palms Sipadan, it sets the bar very high ... It becomes a little "diver gate" afterwards, after seeing so many things, a profusion (sharks, turtles, barracudas, and all weird creatures of Mabul).

    Thank you for your little message anyway. Tomorrow, I'm going to Nusa Lembogan, a small island south of Bali. If I'm lucky, I should be able to cross some manta rays, and if I'm varnished, maybe even one or two moonfish, the famous molas-molas that make fantasies of the local divers ...

    See you soon!

  3. Hi Corinne

    It's true that after Sipadan, difficult to see less, but one of my guides in Borneo taught me one thing, remains humble in the face of what nature gives us. I did not seek to see, I let nature offer me his show and I was filled with elephants, orangutang, proboscis, hornbill, etc.

    One of the divers in Sipadan, advised me Raja Ampat (Indonesia) even better than Sipadan in his words, or maybe the Philipines, it is true that your stories make me already travel ;-)

    Well, I wish you the manta rays come greet you with one or two molas-molas :-) 😉 😀

    See you soon! 8)

  4. @ Framac:

    Yes, the nature does not finish to reserve beautiful surprises. The Philippines is very cool for the "little one", and I was also told about Raja Ampat ... For a future trip, maybe?

    The mantas came this morning to the well-known Manta Point of Lembogan. 😀
    But no mola-molas at the rendezvous in Crystal Bay ... Too bad, maybe another time?


  5. Hi Corinne,

    Wow ❗

    You had to spend a very symptomatic moment with the mantas 🙄

    I take this opportunity to congratulate you for your blog, it is really nice, it makes me want to create one for my future trips.

    If you have any advice to give me I'm a taker 😉 (if you have a moment)

    8) 😀

  6. @ Framac:

    Oh yes, the mantas are always magical ... I hope to return to see them by the end of my stay.

    Thank you for your compliments for the blog. It's a real pleasure to be able to share my impressions, share my meetings, almost live. And then, it also allows me to keep track of my travels, it's a way of logbook for me.

    As for the presentation, I customized it from a template, via the WordPress blogging platform, which suits me very well. But there are many other possibilities. If you need advice on the matter, no problem, my return to France (at the end of the month). Send me a note to make me think.

    See you soon!

  7. I was in BALI from 9 to 26 May and came home dazzled by this beautiful country, the kindness of the Balinese and 10 beautiful dives where we had the chance to cross the "Mola-Mola", white tip sharks, fish toads, fish sheets etc. & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; Mantas, hippocampi + Thousands of other fish and TOMBANT => REVERSANTS! ! ! ! & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; & #8230; .. Quickly forget the inconvenience of 36H travel and 6H jet lag! ! ! ! I do not know how to add photos (among the 1208 terrestrial and 300 underwater) that might be of interest to other travelers? ? ? ! ! !